Tyre pressures?????
Moderator: Moderators
Sounds like 4.10's which is pretty good for a Drag Racing application.
You seem to be pulling a lot of MPH (good bhp) for a less than impressive 60 foot time - I thought that the gears would have come out numerically lower (i.e. 3.23:1 or 3.55:1)....very interesting........
You seem to be pulling a lot of MPH (good bhp) for a less than impressive 60 foot time - I thought that the gears would have come out numerically lower (i.e. 3.23:1 or 3.55:1)....very interesting........
Pete Wiseman; Cambridge.
Mopar by the grace of God
Mopar by the grace of God
The cars in for paint but hoping to make the first rwyb in June to test for dragstalgia so will see what happens then I guess, I've learnt that I was running the slicks far too low so maybe that will help.we can't find the timing slips but we are both sure it ran 115/120 mph at 12.20-12.40 ish. My brothers convinced that it seems to be flat out though as it goes over the line??
mmm......
60 Foot E.T. : 1.55
1/8 Mile E.T. : 7.05
1/8 Mile Trap Speed : 96.41
1/4 Mile E.T. : 11.17
1/4 Mile Trap Speed : 120
1/4 Mile Trap RPM : 5,905
this is at 425hp and weight of 3000lbs...28" slick and 4.10 gears.
60 Foot E.T. : 1.61
1/8 Mile E.T. : 7.32
1/8 Mile Trap Speed : 92.88
1/4 Mile E.T. : 11.60
1/4 Mile Trap Speed : 116
1/4 Mile Trap RPM : 5,689
At 380hp
All I can think of is that it hooks on the hit and then spins till it hooks again on the next shift or that it just doesn't hook, but thats suprising with SS springs...was that with the brake used or just footbrake?....
60 Foot E.T. : 1.55
1/8 Mile E.T. : 7.05
1/8 Mile Trap Speed : 96.41
1/4 Mile E.T. : 11.17
1/4 Mile Trap Speed : 120
1/4 Mile Trap RPM : 5,905
this is at 425hp and weight of 3000lbs...28" slick and 4.10 gears.
60 Foot E.T. : 1.61
1/8 Mile E.T. : 7.32
1/8 Mile Trap Speed : 92.88
1/4 Mile E.T. : 11.60
1/4 Mile Trap Speed : 116
1/4 Mile Trap RPM : 5,689
At 380hp
All I can think of is that it hooks on the hit and then spins till it hooks again on the next shift or that it just doesn't hook, but thats suprising with SS springs...was that with the brake used or just footbrake?....
Last edited by Les Szabo on Tue May 20, 14 9:44 pm, edited 1 time in total.
Another quick way for giving yourself a baseline for you own set up/car weight/ temperature / and tyre side wall support as they are all different is observe the flattened section of tyre in contact with the ground this ideally should be around 10-11 inches once this is achieved take a pressure reading and this is your base line, if car is unstable top end add .5 at a time
Mark a white line with a shoe marker on the rear tyres, then film the car from the side as close as possible, then play it back in slow motion and you will see what the tyres and the suspension are doing. Tyres will crease on the sides but it only needs to be a small amount, excessive wrap up or the part of the tyre on the track creasing is too much. I learned to pump the tyres up untill they spin and then back the pressure down a little.
Mick
Mick
I always used to get the car running its best on motor first before hitting it with squirt, you'll learn more about the N20 that way but that takes more track time....good luck with it....cars got mid to low 9 sec potential running it soft or maybe a high 8 with 250hp, maybe not on a RWYB track though?...should be much faster than my old slug '69 was with that motor.