Engine hoist/stand help

Coupe66 · Post by **Coupe66** » Thu Jan 12, 17 4:03 pm

Hi All,

Can anyone recommend a foldable engine hoist and a 4 wheeled engine stand, as I'm looking to remove the engine (383) from my 68 charger. I've been browsing the bay and with so many to choose from I'm not sure what's good and what's not.

Cheers Mike

Dave999 · Post by **Dave999** » Thu Jan 12, 17 4:24 pm

I have the heavier stand from Machine mart

earlier version of this.

https://www.machinemart.co.uk/p/clarke- ... ine-stand/

sways a bit with a big long six on it but should handle a v8 better

i take the head off the stand
bolt it to the engine

lift the engine with the crane and hang the stand back on the stand head

dump engine and stand where i need it.

and a clark or sealey folding crane.

much the same as this

https://www.machinemart.co.uk/p/cfc100- ... hop-crane/

I don't pull out an engine with the jib fully extended

think you will find that much of the clarke sealey silverline and indeed occasionally draper stuff all seems to come out of the same factory

the higher cost from some suppliers seems to be linked more to spares and support than any change in quality

i have had no bother with the equipment

engine stand was purchased new

the crane was made in the 1990s I think i am the 3rd owner and it has no problem holding the weight of my cast iron motor + the weight of the engine stand.

if your engine has provision for lifting buy some lifting eyes and nuts for the lifting studs and some short chains

if not get some lifting straps with eyes in the end that fit your crane hook

loop them round under the sump front and rear of the main bowl

Dave

Pete · Post by **Pete** » Thu Jan 12, 17 8:28 pm

I think that crane is very borderline for a Big Block once you get that jib out - and you need it out a long way on a "B" Body. If the trans is on the motor then that must be getting very near the mark..

Prothed · Post by **Prothed** » Thu Jan 12, 17 8:34 pm

A few odd things I remember from getting the engine out of the Charger -

Mark the position of the hinges so when you replace the bonnet it will line up properly.

The crane had to be at full extension, so there was one person holding the engine and trans, and two people holding onto the crane hoping it wouldn't all overbalance.

It might all have been easier to have removed the rad and also to have cut and made the cross piece removable to lessen the angle you need when raising/lowering the engine and trans. We didn't.

If your straps don't reach around the engine (old car seat belts) you can hang the engine from the inlet manifold.

Sandy · Post by **Sandy** » Thu Jan 12, 17 8:37 pm

A trans extension plug is a good idea too.

latil · Post by **latil** » Thu Jan 12, 17 8:38 pm

I've got a 3 ton crane with extending bottom legs,ok for moving the whole car,doesn't tip even on full extension. Not a folding model,I just take it to bits and stack it when not in use. Came off ebay for around Â£140 about 8 years ago.

Pete · Post by **Pete** » Thu Jan 12, 17 9:00 pm

latil wrote:I've got a 3 ton crane with extending bottom legs,ok for moving the whole car,doesn't tip even on full extension. Not a folding model,I just take it to bits and stack it when not in use. Came off ebay for around Â£140 about 8 years ago.

I did the same - one of my best buys, you don't want an R/B on your leg....

Coupe66 · Post by **Coupe66** » Fri Jan 13, 17 10:19 am

Not having attempted this before, I was thinking of removing the engine first and tranny second. Would it better/easier to do it all as one 'unit'.

Dave999 · Post by **Dave999** » Fri Jan 13, 17 11:31 am

depends how high you can get the car
are are you doing it by yourself. if i was on my own i wouldn't

if you can set it up nice and high

and you get one of those swivel things that can lower the back by altering centre of gravity of what you have lifted yes
otherwise you end up lifting trying putting it back down adjusting chain or sling and trying again

if not

jack up front

support box

wedge chunk of wood between sump and steering cross bar
undo rear trans cross member and lower slightly until engine rests on wood

pull box out on trolley jack with the front up high on jack stands
pull out jack and box

either with or without bellousing.
but get the housing off the back of the engine

lower car put engine in slings

and lift engine up and twist it slightly to avoid bulkhead clutter.

easier if you have most of the stuff off it

the other option is to lower the whole K-frame after undoing the torsion bars and upper balljoints and rear mount along with the usual load of eletcrics and cables and pipes

that involves lowering it on the jack with a spare jack stand or block of wood/ old tyres under the rear of the trans

using the crane to get k frame off the jack

then lowering the rear off the stand and lifting the car over.

if you have to use the longest reach then yes i agree with pete on the crane i don't mines A body and i'm in position no.2 or 3

however it did come from clivey who i believe pulled out his 440 with it

by yourself in a small is garage taking as much off is probably best

trans off or 4 speed and bell housing off . using the fence post resting betwixt the sump and the steering cross bar works.
undo front engine mounts only once you have the main weight taken by the crane and you have heard you block of wood hit the floor, centre your crane or the motor will decide its going somewhere where you don't want it. usually backwards into the brake pipe running across the bulkhead

Dave

Blue · Post by **Blue** » Fri Jan 13, 17 12:48 pm

Having done it both ways I would always split the two, I find that much easier and safer. Having the engine and box high up and dangling off the crane at some crazy angle is not my idea of fun, it's also very hard to do it that way without help. And of course you still have to split the two anyway once it's out.

Super Sloth · Post by **Super Sloth** » Fri Jan 13, 17 12:52 pm

I have the smaller clarke model (although I wouldn't think about using that on a mopar).
If you need to gain a bit extra reach you can pass the chain through the end of the box section rather than through the hole underneath.
It gets you an extra inch. Might not sound a lot but it's the difference between having to remove the front bumper and not when pulling the lump out of an MGB?

Coupe66 · Post by **Coupe66** » Sat Jan 14, 17 11:51 am

I'll be have a crack at doing on my own (except removing the bonnet).

Pete/latil, have you any info on the type of crane you have with the longer/extended legs as it sounds to be a more stable option and as you say Pete wouldn't want it landing on your big toe!

And thanks' Dave for the step by step instructions it takes the guess work out of the equation for me.

latil · Post by **latil** » Sat Jan 14, 17 1:53 pm

Mine is this one, http://techno.com.my/online/index.php?m ... s_id=19460

I can't seem to find any in the UK.,Ah found a seller who is out of stock.
http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Sealey-Tools- ... 1243213483

Coupe66 · Post by **Coupe66** » Mon Jan 16, 17 1:22 pm

As always - thanks all for the help/advice.

Mike

ANTON · Post by **ANTON** » Mon Jan 16, 17 2:11 pm

I always remove the trans first and then lift the engine out. I do this on my own a lot.
I have a engine hoist that lift 750kg at full reach which is just long enough for a b-body.