20w50
zddp with additive
I used millers running in oil with comp cams break in additive
I have since settled on dynolite which as far as I can tell has more zinc in it than the vast majority of the rest, and have not used the additive the last few changes.
they have a website
www.dynalite.eu which I can't go to at work due to perceived risks ?????.
I felt I was going additive mental bunging in a bottle each time and read some stuff that indicated too much had a detrimental effect on the lubrication and sludge management characteristics of the oil, too much of a good thing is bad....seemingly
https://www.ebay.co.uk/p/Dynolite-20w-5 ... 1590971255
check also the 20W60 which they define as an SAE30 replacement. i.e the oil that most 60's and 70s mopars would have used originally
they also do a running in oil for the first 500 miles
http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/DYNOLITE-20W- ... 2548.l4275
but i'd use a zddp additive as well for the run in.
before you start it.
take off rocker tins
mark each pushrod with tippex or paint pen
turn the motor over by hand with the plugs out for 2 or 3 turns
check that each pushrod has moved round.
if the pushrods have moved round the lifters are turning, if the lifters are turning the chances of a cam/lifter wipe out are massively reduced as the cam wipes past a different part of the lifter face every revolution, if it hit the same point each time the face would get very hot and be damaged.
it has to be noted that in another thread on this subject Dave Billadeau says he still has people asking for assistance with motors with wiped cams, although he didn't go into whether it was specifically oil or component issue he hinted in the case he mentioned that it was oil related. building mopar motors is the family business, so I took form his input that using the right TYPE of oil was vital and that he would have used or advised the use of a different oil if the motor in question had been built by him
use the wrong oil and there will be detrimental impact
i.e don't use an oil for modern cars, an oil designed for a car with FI and catalytic converter regardless of how expensive or how much "faster" it will make you go with its super slippy formulation.
use stuff designed for cars from before 1986
I've used
Millers
Morris's
Dynolite
Valvoline
and the stuff from commer, and Halfords with various motors (basically duckhams copies)
you will find someone somewhere who slags off each and every one of them, and others who think they are great
choose one and stick with it.
I suspect that the base-stock oil for the lot of them probably comes from the same place
and they all have to meet or exceed an API standard applicable to being suitable for cars from 1950s to approx. 1986.
i.e they can't vary the additive package too much
hope I haven't made the decision harder
Dave
