I never knew that about Park, thanks Dunc
Looks to me like it used to be an O ring a long, long time ago!
Torqueflite 727
Moderator: Moderators
Re: Torqueflite 727
No-one will believe you...
Re: Torqueflite 727
Axel Sorted, parts on order for the Transmission so attention next onto Brakes
So, Discs front and drums rear ... have seen people added servo assistance, suggestions welcome on what works.
Not convinced master cylinder is correct for my disc and drum setup, shouldn't the reservoir for the front be bigger ?
Like this ??? Again, new territory here, so open to suggestions Or just hook up a servo and see if this improves things
So, Discs front and drums rear ... have seen people added servo assistance, suggestions welcome on what works.
Not convinced master cylinder is correct for my disc and drum setup, shouldn't the reservoir for the front be bigger ?
Like this ??? Again, new territory here, so open to suggestions Or just hook up a servo and see if this improves things
"Snot Rod" 1971 440 Charger
Re: Torqueflite 727
The M/C with the same size reservoirs looks like a "Drum - Drum" one to me.
If it is, then I am surprised the front brakes do not bind on, unless it has been modified.
If it is, then I am surprised the front brakes do not bind on, unless it has been modified.
Pete Wiseman; Cambridge.
Mopar by the grace of God
Mopar by the grace of God
Re: Torqueflite 727
Isn't it usual for the rear of the m/cyl to work the fronts and the front to do the rears?
No-one will believe you...
Re: Torqueflite 727
Just to Clarify, the Discs go to the larger Res at the front
"Snot Rod" 1971 440 Charger
Re: Torqueflite 727
And thanks to the advice for the Gearbox oil, have gone with Dextron II
And going with 20/50 for the Motor
And going with 20/50 for the Motor
"Snot Rod" 1971 440 Charger
Re: Torqueflite 727
don't think you need a booster
provided everything is good
1) the peddle assembly has the hole in the right place for the manual brake linkage
2) the brakes are in good condition
3) you don't go daft with race pads and a master cylinder with a bore the diameter of a can of larger
but with front discs you do need some kind of proportioning
either a brake portion thingo....
or you go with smaller drums on the back with the dodge dakota wheel cylinders
you don't need the 11 inch whoppers on the end that has no weight in it, and even less weight in it when stopping, the rear end stands up on its tippy toes as the nose dives for the weeds when you hit the peddle with the disk brake front
OR do both
front should lock up first, and now it can't, becasue a calliper takes more fluid and way more pressure in the line to actuate than a drum does, your rear drums are sized in accordance with the front having drums.
most mopars do the opposite when equipped with disk brakes i.e the rear locks first and that makes them slew sideways in a big skid. i once ended up facing the bus exit in the middle of hammersmith broadway gyratory a full 90 * round from the direction of the traffic after a geezer stepped out into the road inebriated..... new pants please.... for both of us
the rears are duo-servo, the action of 1 shoe rams the other shoe hard into the drum, the whole, floating shebang in there, wraps round slightly on its pins and locks the drum up easily, also making them slow to release
ploughing straight on, front end locked up, rear end wheels still turning and lifting off the brakes to steer is supposed to be easier when you are in an Oh-Bananarama! moment. If you then steer and lose the back end the car pivots around you, which is easier to deal with than it pivoting around the front steering axis making you feel like you are on a waltzer.
Dave
provided everything is good
1) the peddle assembly has the hole in the right place for the manual brake linkage
2) the brakes are in good condition
3) you don't go daft with race pads and a master cylinder with a bore the diameter of a can of larger
but with front discs you do need some kind of proportioning
either a brake portion thingo....
or you go with smaller drums on the back with the dodge dakota wheel cylinders
you don't need the 11 inch whoppers on the end that has no weight in it, and even less weight in it when stopping, the rear end stands up on its tippy toes as the nose dives for the weeds when you hit the peddle with the disk brake front
OR do both
front should lock up first, and now it can't, becasue a calliper takes more fluid and way more pressure in the line to actuate than a drum does, your rear drums are sized in accordance with the front having drums.
most mopars do the opposite when equipped with disk brakes i.e the rear locks first and that makes them slew sideways in a big skid. i once ended up facing the bus exit in the middle of hammersmith broadway gyratory a full 90 * round from the direction of the traffic after a geezer stepped out into the road inebriated..... new pants please.... for both of us
the rears are duo-servo, the action of 1 shoe rams the other shoe hard into the drum, the whole, floating shebang in there, wraps round slightly on its pins and locks the drum up easily, also making them slow to release
ploughing straight on, front end locked up, rear end wheels still turning and lifting off the brakes to steer is supposed to be easier when you are in an Oh-Bananarama! moment. If you then steer and lose the back end the car pivots around you, which is easier to deal with than it pivoting around the front steering axis making you feel like you are on a waltzer.
Dave
The Greater Knapweed near the Mugwort by the Buckthorn tree is dying
Re: Torqueflite 727
Hi Dave
Thanks for the reply, what your saying makes a lot of sense, I have a lot to do - will update here when I am a bit nearer
Cheers
Jim
Thanks for the reply, what your saying makes a lot of sense, I have a lot to do - will update here when I am a bit nearer
Cheers
Jim
"Snot Rod" 1971 440 Charger