Brake Drums Valiant VF / 69 Dart

[Ace Dropshot]

Reaching out for some help here with ordering the correct brake components for my VF. @Dave?!!!
Cylinder ceased and pads, etc require replacement.

Following recommendations I'm looking at RockAuto for parts. But there are a plethora of options, and from expertise here I'm aware I need to know what I've got so I can reuse the drums.

I've attached some images, with the drum inside diameter and depth. I'd appreciate some guidance to which parts/version I need to order - generally understanding what I have.

Thanks as usual. Making a push to get on top of the mechanics this year.

[Dave999]

You talking front or rear?
is see confusing things

front drums
4 Shoes: 229mm x 63mm i.e 2.48 inch (Drum Diameter x Width)
rear drums
4 Shoes: 229mm x 51mm about 2 inch (Drum Diameter x Width)

both
2 Leading + 2 Trailing Shoes

usually have 2.5 inch shoes in front drums with 2 inch shoes in rear

Suggestions for rear.....


RAYBESTOS H7130 hardware kit to hold the shoes on + all springs etc
RAYBESTOS H2527 and RAYBESTOS H2526 for the self adjusters

austrlian wheel cylinder for VF is... Part No: P34876....see one here, look at the bolt spaceing, the half moon cut outs and the round bit that seats on the backing plate...
https://www.butlerautomart.co.nz/our-ra ... 34876.aspx


you could spend $34 each for them + shipping and VAT on the lot

but i'd risk thsese

which look the same to me....



My problem is I can't remeber what wheel cylinders i purchased, but RAYBESTOS WC34876 looks exactly the same and is only $7
the only difference i see is the squared off edge above the inlet port and that bit fits through the round hole so shouldn't be a problem

front cylinders have an angled double inlet, with the appropriate one drilled for a seat for the pipe on the left hand or right hand side,rear cylinders do not as the diff is straight and the wheels don't steer.

shoes.
any from here in 9x2 for rear and 9x2.5 for front raybestos organic or bosch rivited caught my eye...

https://www.rockauto.com/en/catalog/dod ... +shoe,1688
steer clear of ecconomy and pick from the dialy driver section


you will also need a bag of washers from wickes, Mianly becasue i have suggested a later post 73 hardware kit.

your backing plates are designed for this anchor which is a mid 60s style of holding down the shoes. i think they are rubbish and are horrible to fit, so didn't suggest them.

RAYBESTOS H1134K





and thsese springs
DORMAN HW1156


the spring goes through the shoe and hooks onto the anchor which has the square open part poking through the backing plate.

the holes in your backing plate need to be big enough for the hook section but not so big to let through the square base.
This can mean the holes in the plate are bigger than the head of the pins in the raybestos hardware fitting kit i suggested above. Which is the 10 inch and post 1973 9 inch hold down style. (much better)
bag of washers does the, trick pop em on the pins and stick the pins through the backing plate.

remeber that chrylsers use NO LEAD pipe nuts designed for bubble flares on everything apart from the big fat one on the master cylinder which is different and i can't remeber how its different other than its bigger to stop you connecting the front to the rear or vice versa.


if you have this master cylinder


remeber that it has a safety piston in it, which will lock-out and block off either the front or rear brakes if you bleed them too vigourously
you will have to undo the electrircal switch in the port on the MC to unlock the "lockout" piston to get your front or rear brakes back and the light in the dash to go off.

if the fitting kit pins are too long a set for a ford sierra off ebay will see you right.

when you first put the rear brakes on you can more or less guarantee that the shoes are not the same shape as the drum and you will only be brakeing on the ends or the middle of each shoe.
adjust them up tight as per the manual bleed the brakes then back them off twice as far as suggested check they work and drive like that for a bit
let them bed in then adjust properly once you can see ware marks across the whole face of each


Dave

[Ace Dropshot]

Magic. Thanks Dave for all the info. I'll take some time tomorrow to go though it all.

It is only the rear drums. The front are discs upgrade and I was forgetting that they were not standard.

[Ace Dropshot]

I'm also going to have to replace these. Threads are knackered!

[Dave999]

Well any pre 73 A body ones fit

BUT the arms never had any threads to start with, just a starting thread .....!
the balljoints cut the thread as you put them in.
so that mess will get crushed/smeared into a new thread that may or may not be good enough
arms are relativly soft, deliberatly, they bend but don't snap in an accident. shell of balljoint is rock hard

start balljoint in with a mallet. off the car up to the thread

hold arm in vice, and start turning joint in in 1-2 turns, to get some thread engaged with the eye. Then add some lube for the rest of the journey
check it is going in straight.
put arm on car and wind it in the rest of the way up to the torque in the book. 125 Ft /LB
by this stage the hex edge of the top of the joint should be touching the the arm.
if you get to 125 before this? are they straight? if so wind them in until the top hits the arm.

If they go in a little wonky,but they are fully in, (part of edge touching arm) and achive torque.... just leave well alone. takeing them out again is just going to stretch the eye in the arm more.
the centre of the socket is still in the centre of the arm and the stud will self centre once all bolted up.
you can not get them in so wonky as to have the stud shaft grind out on the balljoint socket edge in normal operation

The measure of a worn arm is NOT being able to wind one in tight enough to reach 125 ft/lb, if you can, who cares what the threads looked like before you started...


Dave

[Pete]

I have seen "A" Arms where the Ball Joint has been replaced and a dab of weld has been added as a "lockwire" to prevent it loosening off...

[Dave999]

yeah and a good new set of joints if greased properly will last longer than the rest of the car, so if a tack weld is necessary. no biggy

its the lower ones that take the battering

if you swapped the lot to Post 73 US parts
big top balljoints with the big balljoint stub axles (bigger taper for top joint and Bigger inner bearing for the hub) and the of course the associated US Hubs and rotors due to the bigger stub axle bearing
you can get rebuildable/ adjustable tension joints
special long joints for altering roll centre
all kids of good stuff

but its a bit much to do unless you have all the post 73 US stuff on hand

would all work with pin slider or claw slider calipers
might be a problem with solid disk VC-VF early style PBR calipers, that are solid mount 2 pot set up, can more or less guess that the offset of the USA rotor would be wrong and you'd need a slider caliper of the VH (pin) or VJ (claw), Kelsey Hayse or Girlock style

all Mopars use the "3.5 inch centres" mounting on the stub axle for the caliper or its caliper bracket. which is nice ... same as austin princess Jag xj and toyota hilux, and a host of Wilwood aftermarket small calipers

Dave