Mopar Muscle Association UK

It’s readily available Dave but it ain’t cheap...

I've seen people use this in builds before. I've always wondered what would happen after a few heat cycles / years? The obvious question is have you ever notice the finish fair in certain areas when you've done a strip down? The concern being the consequence of the product flakeing away and partially or completely blocking the oil pickup?

Never seen it degrade at all. I internally painted a 440, must be about getting on for 20 years ago now, still in regular use with no issues.

Blue wrote: Mon Apr 29, 19 10:50 am It’s readily available Dave but it ain’t cheap...

yeah last time you used it i discovered that if i built electric motors for trains or worked for the US military i'd be fine i'd buy 20 gallons and be a happy electric motor and switch gear kinda guy

but if i wanted a pint pot of the stuff it would be.... well more than i wanted to pay

https://www.frost.co.uk/glyptal-red-ena ... quart.html 1201 A i think not B

67 quid a quart here

or 32 bux for spray can in US

But it does look so nice.!!!!!

dave

Finally got back to assembling the short block, need to take the oil pump off and grind the body as it's touching the oil pan and stopping it from sitting flat

Oil pump clearanced, new pick up is a bit tight for clearance but at a little over 35thou it should be adequate. Crank scraper doesn't clear the oil pan either so thats getting relieved next..

I'll be interested in seeing how you fit the scraper Blue - are you using two gaskets, or bonding to the block and using one gasket etc, mostly interested in how this affects the mains seals fit to the oil pan, since effectively the oil pan is being spaced down a bit. I've never seen this discussed, so either it's just not a problem or maybe I've missed something.....

i have seen it discussed

and based only on that discussion
It seemed to involve some silicone sealant sculpting....

i'm guessing there are other ways


Dave

Yes you can replace the rubber seals with a bead of silicone in much the same way as you do with inlet manifold rubber/cork gaskets.
Neil.

Stick the scraper to the block with silicone and use a one piece gasket is my plan.

The build stalls again. Some of you will know of my hatred for Cloyes timing sets and their non existent quality control, they've done me again. When I pulled the 408 apart it had a newish timing set in it with no stretch, I googled the number stamped on it and it came up as a Comp Cams so I set it aside to reuse.
This morning I was degreeing in the cam in and on the straight up setting it was 2.5 degrees too advanced, on the 4 degrees retarded mark it was 9 degrees retarded and on the 4 degrees advanced mark it was 8 degrees advanced, junk.
A bit more googling of the part number also came up with Lunati, Summit own brand and Cloyes who are clearly the manufacturer no matter what it says on the box, grrr.
So, Just ordered a billet 9 way adjustable set from Pro Gear (Definatly not made by Cloyes) and I expect it will be bang on if previous experience is anything to go by.

Blue,
Your post reminds me of the 9 way sprocket , that, was stamped with the advance and retard degrees reversed - very helpful!
Chris

ah the aussies have this sussed

small block Romac/rollmaster timing set...
I used their hemi 6 one and its Nice
and excessively detailed instructions....which you won't need, but nice touch....

https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Rollmaster-T ... 0008.m2219

cost not a lot but the shipping is a pain

Iwis chain, i'm sure we made better in sheffield or indeed absolutely bostin ones in birmingham at some point, but the german chains are used in many timing chain and motor cycle applications

dave

New Pro gear billet timing set came today, correct to within half a degree, boom that'll do. It's the same German chain as the Rollmasters use.

Nice


dave