Dave Robsons Challenger R/T

drewcrane · Post by **drewcrane** » Wed Sep 22, 10 12:53 pm

Nice to see you are getting your car together , finally

Dave-R · Post by **Dave-R** » Wed Sep 22, 10 12:58 pm

Probably another two nights work to get it running so will miss the Cruise tonight.

But my Dad needs a hand with a light fitting in his home at the weekend so the 40 mile round trip to his and back will be a good test run to see how things are with the engine.

Anonymous · Post by **Anonymous** » Wed Sep 22, 10 1:39 pm

thats great work your doing there looking forward to hearing about the results

Dave-R · Post by **Dave-R** » Fri Sep 24, 10 9:48 am

I have only managed to get three hours of solid work in since the last photos were taken on Tuesday night. I think it will take another two hours to finish. My back is killing me though so its a struggle.

Just have to fit the exhaust to the headers, fit the alternator (might have to enlarge the bracket hole) and rocker covers. Must remember to torque the rear wheel nuts as they are only finger tight. Then fill with water and clean the engine bay up.

Dave-R · Post by **Dave-R** » Fri Sep 24, 10 11:44 pm

Bloody MSD plug boot broke.

Same #3 cylinder as the pushrods bent on. That is one unlucky cylinder.

Found a spare right-angle boot tonight though.

Dave-R · Post by **Dave-R** » Sun Sep 26, 10 5:16 pm

Well after a few gremlins sorted i took her out for a good drive around this afternoon and she is driving great!

But still water boiling out of one head. In fact it is worse.

One thing I noticed though. The header bolts seem a very loose fit in the holes. In fact when I re-painted the heads, after having them tested and re-surfaced, I painted inside the bolt holes to tighten them up. But the bolts still screwed in easily with my fingers without seeming to cut the paint on the threads much if at all.

So I am wondering if the holes have been tapped a bit too big or the bolts a bit too small.

I used my cheap tap and die set on them both when I rebuilt the engine.

Anonymous · Post by **Anonymous** » Sun Sep 26, 10 5:20 pm

Dave wrote:Well after a few gremlins sorted i took her out for a good drive around this afternoon and she is driving great!

But still water boiling out of one head. In fact it is worse.

One thing I noticed though. The header bolts seem a very loose fit in the holes. In fact when I re-painted the heads, after having them tested and re-surfaced, I painted inside the bolt holes to tighten them up. But the bolts still screwed in easily with my fingers without seeming to cut the paint on the threads much if at all.

So I am wondering if the holes have been tapped a bit too big or the bolts a bit too small.

I used my cheap tap and die set on them both when I rebuilt the engine.

i think your on to something there dave that wouldnt help at all if they are that slack

jerry · Post by **jerry** » Sun Sep 26, 10 5:23 pm

Unlikely the bolt is on the small side Dave, more likely the thread has been pulled in the past.

Loctite do some great thread sealers, be carefull, as some are not removable, well not without a bloody struggle.

Could you not use a stud on the one that is leaking, then a non removable thread sealant would be good

I guess it would be too hard to redrill & tap next size up ? Assuming you can get

Dave-R · Post by **Dave-R** » Sun Sep 26, 10 6:58 pm

I can't use a stud. There is no way I would get the headers on or off.

I could have cut the hole and bolt too deep on the threads. I was away with the fairies when I built this engine so i could have done anything.

Not sure if bigger bolts are an option? It is tricky getting a couple of the 3/8ths bolts in there as it is. Plus they need to have the small head.

I think it is worth trying new bolts. Just in case it is as simple as that.

Meawhile I am going to flush out all the anti-freeze because my last resort is to use one of the block sealers. And I would rather use the type that once used you flush out again. And for that type i need nothing but fresh water in the block.

Dave-R · Post by **Dave-R** » Sun Sep 26, 10 7:12 pm

http://www.summitracing.com/parts/PHP-20003/

Split lock bolts! The expand against the hole.

If that is where i am leaking from those should sort it out.

Going to have to check i can actually get a hex key in on all the bolts heads though. I suspect not.

Anonymous · Post by **Anonymous** » Sun Sep 26, 10 7:27 pm

those split bolts might leak through the splits

but its worth a try or the other option is to get the head repaired

ANTON · Post by **ANTON** » Sun Sep 26, 10 8:04 pm

Dave
If use studs to stop the leak you could cut the header flange to slot on the stud with a large flanged nut and the you should be able to fit the headers.

Mick70RR · Post by **Mick70RR** » Sun Sep 26, 10 8:08 pm

Dave, you should have Helicoiled those loose threads while you had the heads off. You could still do it but it but it would be a struggle with the heads on.

jerry · Post by **jerry** » Sun Sep 26, 10 9:18 pm

Dave wrote:http://www.summitracing.com/parts/PHP-20003/

Split lock bolts! The expand against the hole.

Not seen those before, could be a handy reference for the future

ANTON wrote:Dave
If use studs to stop the leak you could cut the header flange to slot on the stud with a large flanged nut and the you should be able to fit the headers.

Anton, I was thinking similar, but until you see the job infront of you, hard to visualise room for fitting headers when a stud is installed

Mick70RR wrote:Dave, you should have Helicoiled those loose threads while you had the heads off. You could still do it but it but it would be a struggle with the heads on.

I am sure Dave knows that & doesnt need to be reminded, thats why I chose not too mention it

Dave-R · Post by **Dave-R** » Mon Sep 27, 10 10:31 am

rickster wrote:those split bolts might leak through the splits but its worth a try or the other option is to get the head repaired

They are only split at the ends so should be OK. I would pack the whole thing with silicon anyway.