Mopar Muscle Association UK

Run the stated street pressure as this gives the biggest contact area. Don't bother with a burnout, drive round the water......
I ran street 295/50 x 15 Hoosier QuickTimes for a few seasons and they were well sticky, but that was before my NOScapades!

Pump the fronts to 40psi to give less rolling resistance.

Cheers Kev

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Miles
Drag radials, are not slicks, they are very soft compound street tyres, the street eliminator guys run them.
I have got a brand new pinion snubber, if you're interested.
Mick

Ian Z wrote:I say sort suspension then gearing, then use slicks in that order.

I agree with that. I would add torque convertor to that list too. You need the rpms up fast.

We actually went 2 tenths slower over the quarter first time out on slicks from 12.2 to 12.4. I don't have the 60ft info with me.

I think it was due to the convertor being too tight (2800) and the slicks being 2 inches taller. Also we were running 3.91s in the axle. On the street tyres the spin off the line actually got me up on the torque curve.

Since then I have fitted 4.30 gears and a 3000+ stall converter.

People used to argue against it but I have always said you should run a good rear sway bar. It helps stop the right rear wheel loose traction. A pinion adjusted correctly for the track is a must. Uprate the rear springs and use gas (not air) shocks.

33 Plymouth wrote:
One for the experts , what about tyre pressure on road tyres . Does it make and difference for us no slickers to lower PSI ??????

No.

The best thing you can do is get someone who knows to watch your car leave the line and tell you what is wrong.

Even better, get someone to film your car over the 60 ft and watch it to see what the car is doing.

Sandy wrote:The best thing you can do is get someone who knows to watch your car leave the line and tell you what is wrong.

Even better, get someone to film your car over the 60 ft and watch it to see what the car is doing.

Great advice Sandy but to get someone that close to the start means they would have to help push the car to the start and it's easier to improve your 60 ft time than find someone to help push the car

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Ever heard of the zoom lens

Dave, about the rear sway bar thing, i know a company that is making sway bar set ups for muscle cars that didnt have them, or have removed them and need replacements to help improve 60 ft times so your bang on with that.
Im thinking of fitting mine back on to see if it works

Always had a problem with the 60ft time, best used to be 2.2 secs. Then changed the rear tyres, (street tyres), and, after dropping the pressure from 10lb down to 8lb, got my 60 ft to 1.8, so STILL room for improvement there!!!! Don't want to run slicks though, also gonna try the car COMPLETELY street legal one day, (through the mufflers)!

thanks guys, i'm listening.
Mick pm'd ya ref snubber.

AllKiller wrote:Dave, about the rear sway bar thing, i know a company that is making sway bar set ups for muscle cars that didnt have them, or have removed them and need replacements to help improve 60 ft times so your bang on with that.
Im thinking of fitting mine back on to see if it works

Make sure you get the kind that fixes to the chassis with the ends on the axle. They are available now.

I have the old replacement type that mounts to the axle with the ends to the chassis. This increases the unsprung rate but was all that was available back when I fitted it.

any link to a site Dave ?

I think Firm Feel do a rear bar that is modeled after the AAR Cuda/Challenger T/A piece.