Rob & Stu's 63 Polara 500
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MilesnMiles
- Posts: 7309
- Joined: Fri Nov 04, 05 8:40 pm
- Location: Cornwall
Re Vibrations...
Hi Guys. Was just admiring those lovely pictures of your motor, did you get to find out your vib prob, I would be interested to know as it also took me ages to find the cause for my one. (Although not as long as you guys have had the car) Re your on-going teething problems as one of our members said we are all beholden to the great Mopar God and what ever he decides can go wrong and how, we all have to deal and pay for it...
Rich.
Rich.
At my Worst,I'm at my Best ......
072
072
Hi Rich, no havent been able to do anything yet but have had some more suggestions of what to look for.
Apparently, it could be the torque converter bolts need torquing, or the trans mount needing tightening?
Also gonna check the flex plate bolts and their holes for wear.
Could be balance weights on the converter missing.
Also been suggested to check whether the vibration is there at around 3000rpm when stationary and not in gear. That would eliminate the prop/axle etc. Obvious really, but worth checking.
Should keep us busy
Apparently, it could be the torque converter bolts need torquing, or the trans mount needing tightening?
Also gonna check the flex plate bolts and their holes for wear.
Could be balance weights on the converter missing.
Also been suggested to check whether the vibration is there at around 3000rpm when stationary and not in gear. That would eliminate the prop/axle etc. Obvious really, but worth checking.
Should keep us busy
'bout time for a bit of an update...... was going to say 'progress' report but that would be lying
The plan was to get the vibrations sorted out by now, but our sticking trans pushbuttons got worse to the point we felt we had to get that sorted first. And by the time we got started on it, could hardly get any gears selected properly
Armed with the 63 FSM & some helpful advice from some fellow US members of the ugly club (ie, other 62-65 owners), over the last few weeks we've have had a go at lubing the selector unit that mounts up under the dash, and adjusting the cable where it mounts to/enters the gearbox.
Last Saturday we just about started to get the pushbuttons to stay latched in again, but not all the time, and not all of them either
A bit more time under the car on the adjustment might get us to where it's useable again, but a new cable might be best in the long run. The one on the car is quite close to the exhaust and may have been damaged by the heat. It's been wrapped in some reflective material and bound with wire, but it's been suggested that even the binding might restrict the movement of the cable in the outer
Will report back after we've had another go
The plan was to get the vibrations sorted out by now, but our sticking trans pushbuttons got worse to the point we felt we had to get that sorted first. And by the time we got started on it, could hardly get any gears selected properly
Armed with the 63 FSM & some helpful advice from some fellow US members of the ugly club (ie, other 62-65 owners), over the last few weeks we've have had a go at lubing the selector unit that mounts up under the dash, and adjusting the cable where it mounts to/enters the gearbox.
Last Saturday we just about started to get the pushbuttons to stay latched in again, but not all the time, and not all of them either
A bit more time under the car on the adjustment might get us to where it's useable again, but a new cable might be best in the long run. The one on the car is quite close to the exhaust and may have been damaged by the heat. It's been wrapped in some reflective material and bound with wire, but it's been suggested that even the binding might restrict the movement of the cable in the outer
Will report back after we've had another go
Last edited by RobTwin on Mon Feb 19, 07 12:13 am, edited 1 time in total.
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Anonymous
Cable avaialble from Imperial Services, $180 for the shift, $160 for the park cable. Plus shipping 
May get a new seedo one while we're at it too
http://www.imperialservices.net/Imperia ... 0Parts.htm
Not quite got to grips with how the pushbuttons operate the cable yet as we've been lookin more at t'other end. I've been assured the selector unit is pretty bullet proof and doesnt usually need much doing to it except a bit of lube now n then. All the adjustment of the shifter cable is done down at the trans end.
Lookin at the pic above called 'adjuster', once the hex screw is removed from the round adjuster wheel with the 6 holes, the adjuster can be turned anti clockwise to allow the cable to be pushed further in, or clockwise to allow the cable to be pulled back out the trans, for adjustment.
In this pic below, cable inner 'A' pushes/pulls double-pronged bracket 'B' (prob not its official name ), which pivots at 'C'. Other end of this 'bracket' 'D', acts on valve 'E', which moves in and out of the trans internals and does the actual selecting gear bit. We think!
When the valve is at its furthest point to the left in the pic, that's Reverse. So when it's at its furthest to the right (ie fully out), that's in First.
The clever (ie difficult) bit of getting the adjustment right is knowing where that valve needs to be (how far in or out) to actually select the gear that the push button position on the dash says it is selecting.
Are you following
When we finished on Saturday, we'd got to a point where all the buttons were latching in
, but without starting her up and trying the gears, couldnt be sure pushing (eg) Drive would actually get Drive! Well, at least there's some doubt in our mind
We reckon we should be able to set it in neutral by aligning part of bracket 'B' with the neutral safety switch 'F', but I need to check exactly where that position is with our US friends.
Bit of luck get that done next weekend
Well, you did ask....
May get a new seedo one while we're at it too http://www.imperialservices.net/Imperia ... 0Parts.htm
Not quite got to grips with how the pushbuttons operate the cable yet as we've been lookin more at t'other end. I've been assured the selector unit is pretty bullet proof and doesnt usually need much doing to it except a bit of lube now n then. All the adjustment of the shifter cable is done down at the trans end.
Lookin at the pic above called 'adjuster', once the hex screw is removed from the round adjuster wheel with the 6 holes, the adjuster can be turned anti clockwise to allow the cable to be pushed further in, or clockwise to allow the cable to be pulled back out the trans, for adjustment.
In this pic below, cable inner 'A' pushes/pulls double-pronged bracket 'B' (prob not its official name
), which pivots at 'C'. Other end of this 'bracket' 'D', acts on valve 'E', which moves in and out of the trans internals and does the actual selecting gear bit. We think!When the valve is at its furthest point to the left in the pic, that's Reverse. So when it's at its furthest to the right (ie fully out), that's in First.
The clever (ie difficult) bit of getting the adjustment right is knowing where that valve needs to be (how far in or out) to actually select the gear that the push button position on the dash says it is selecting.
Are you following
When we finished on Saturday, we'd got to a point where all the buttons were latching in
, but without starting her up and trying the gears, couldnt be sure pushing (eg) Drive would actually get Drive! Well, at least there's some doubt in our mind We reckon we should be able to set it in neutral by aligning part of bracket 'B' with the neutral safety switch 'F', but I need to check exactly where that position is with our US friends.
Bit of luck get that done next weekend
Well, you did ask....
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Anonymous
Thanks. 'Tis stuff like that that makes the forum ....RobTwin wrote:Cable avaialble from Imperial Services, $180 for the shift, $160 for the park cable. Plus shipping
http://www.imperialservices.net/Imperia ... 0Parts.htm
Not quite got to grips with how the pushbuttons operate the cable yet as we've been lookin more at t'other end. I've been assured the selector unit is pretty bullet proof and doesnt usually need much doing to it except a bit of lube now n then. All the adjustment of the shifter cable is done down at the trans end.
Lookin at the pic above called 'adjuster', once the hex screw is removed from the round adjuster wheel with the 6 holes, the adjuster can be turned anti clockwise to allow the cable to be pushed further in, or clockwise to allow the cable to be pulled back out the trans, for adjustment.
In this pic below, cable inner 'A' pushes/pulls double-pronged bracket 'B' (prob not its official name
When the valve is at its furthest point to the left in the pic, that's Reverse. So when it's at its furthest to the right (ie fully out), that's in First.
The clever (ie difficult) bit of getting the adjustment right is knowing where that valve needs to be (how far in or out) to actually select the gear that the push button position on the dash says it is selecting.
Are you following
When we finished on Saturday, we'd got to a point where all the buttons were latching in
We reckon we should be able to set it in neutral by aligning part of bracket 'B' with the neutral safety switch 'F', but I need to check exactly where that position is with our US friends.
Bit of luck get that done next weekend
Well, you did ask....
