Mopar Muscle Association UK

Dave81 wrote: Tue Feb 05, 19 1:42 pm The detail stuff is fantastic Will.
I'd like to think i could build stuff like this, but the level you go to is way past my simple mind!!!

Little steps at a time. I set myself challenges tonight in the garage i will do A,B,C and i don't live leave till they're done.

A Bananarama! exhaust fitted just to get me going as the plan is turbo have just thrown it all together.

Brake bleeding !

Due to the really long brake lines and very small diameter master cylinder i knew it was going to be a bitch to bleed.

I brought a fancy Vacum brake bleeder to suck it out he nipples. I was hoping to give you an amazing review but i dropped it and the arse fell off the pot. Needless to say it worked great and would have been impossible to do without. This type of system is well worth buying just get a better quality one.

Front brake = Done
Rear Brake = Done
Clutch = Somone has stolen my nipple from the slave cylinder Who Steals Nipples !!!!!!!!!

Dash / Warning Shift light.

At 100mph you not going to be reading oil pressure so didn't want some big dash/ display.

The SLM (Shift Light Module) may be used for shift lights, warning lights or other indicators as programmed by the user.
It provides eight multicolour LED indicator lights in a compact array. The colour, intensity and purpose of each LED can be controlled independently, providing enormous flexibility and scope for customisation. A set of patterns can be defined with various colour combinations and flashing modes,
indicating for example: stop immediately, continue with caution, pit lane speed limiter active and of course, up-shift and down-shift.
The LEDs can be programmed in a priority order so that, for example, a warning light can override a shift light.

Its also controlled via a CAN bus (Controller Area Network) to the master computer which means its only needs 2 coms cables and Power!

I have left the wires long so this can be moulded into bodywork later, for now, it's on the top arm so i can spot a warning.

Amazing work mate.
Make sure you've a go pro handy for first flight !!!

i've got one of them brake suckers work quite well..... i went for one that described itself as the original got it off US Amazon
i'd be inclined to say the quality is just the same i.e just about adequate and your red one probably came out the same factory as my grey one

just you got a nice case for yours and i got a cardboard box with a blister pack front

i'd guess back when they were invented they were metal and the pots were glass jars in a nicely finished wooden rack with screw on lids..... such is progress

Dave

Throttle cables

Painful !!

Due to the length of the cables and the addition friction caused by long cables the butterflies would not close with standard spring pressure.

Addition springs caused a heavy throttle and a little bit to much tension going on near the throttle Bodies.

After a few attempts I got in the car drove to Venhill engineer. The man to see is Martin he is about 12 years old but blew me away with his knolage.


If you need a cable or brake line for anything he will do it !



Ended up with a boat clucth cable connected to Billet pit bike twist grip

Kill lanyard

The bike has a clever relay cut circuit built in to shut down all power to every system if the lanyard is removed.

The lanyard is a good quality MPS billet drag bike one but I’m told that Santa pod / has / is / might / have new rules requiring the lanyard to pull out from any position ??

Aka - not a straight pull but left right up down ?????


Also fitted a battery isolation switch for crew (you lot) to shut down bike if my feet are on fire.

Wheel speed sensors

Mount front and rear wheel speed sensors a little over engineered and heavy and intend to change the rear once I come up with a better mounting solution...

Sensors pick up off the bolt heads

Ill be the first to stick my name down for "crew"
Would be a pleasure mate

Having a horrible time with the simple operation of pulling the clucth in. From air in lines to wrong clucth heights to shimming to modifying slave push rods.

Calculating slave throw and fluid displacements. It’s all custom and a real mismatch of parts.

thats a lot of clutch plates

if its a wet clutch you need the right oil for the type of lining on the plates or indeed the material they are made from...if it is in oil that is......
the plate manufacturer will specify what but usually stuff without any extreme pressure additive

otherwise they just glue together or slip like a slippy thing and it feels like the clutch can not be adjusted

well they do on a lambretta possibly the least likely partner for comparison ever.... but wet clutch just like a sure grip needs the right "WET"....

Dave

Will a hydraulic set up release the clutch fast enough to prevent clutch slip? I believe most drag racing set ups use some sort of mechanical linkage for instant release.

We have a similar issue at work and we install "over-sized" AN Pipes so the fluid can exit from the Slave rapidly to speed up release....

I seem to remember the main issue with a fluid clutch on bike motors was they'd chatter or bounce on sudden release. That was a long time ago though...

The clutch ....

It’s a fully billet unit which is the latest for this season

It’s costs as much as the engine so better be good

The clutch sits in the crank case and is submerged in the engine oil. Due to such a large rear tyre if I was to use a standard clucth I risk melting it and clogging the engine and causing engine oil starvation.