Mopar Muscle Association UK

Steve
the crank scraper is going to be the issue here I think

I think on a BB then the smallest stroke plus the lightest crank gives a point for the scraper, anything bigger stroke or fatter crank would need to be trim to fit, (think I got that right)

As for where the mesh and the tray sits then that comes down to the largest stroke and the pan, but I can maybe figure that out from the windage tray I have here

OK nice one

Cometic are cutting a pan gasket for me at the moment 2" wider on the inside.
Going to trim this down to get a small flange on the inside.

mi brother delivered several peices of ally last night

once everything is here the plan is to have all 3 in 1, scraper, windage tray and mesh screen in ally, fitted to the inside of the gasket

we'll see

Though the mesh screen was the windage Neil ??

Steve

mesh screen versus solid louvered windage tray

the mesh diffuses oil dropped from above so splashback is a lot less than with a solid tray

but hard acceleration with a mesh allows oil to come back though it, certainly at the rear

a solid louvered tray suffers a lot from splashback from the top but doesn't let oil back up

so an ally solid louvered tray similar to the milodon deal but with a mesh screen spaced a short distance above it ought to be the best of both worlds.

depending how this all looks when I get all the peices sorted out I may just use solid at the back though, this will depend on what the tray needs to be to support itself, take the 3 bends in the milodon tray they would make quite thin ally strong enough

What about the inclusion of this cheeky little number from Crankscrapers.com.......

During hard acceleration in the big block the oil rushes to the back of the motor where it can then easily splash up and hit the rotating assembly. This robs your engine of valuable horsepower and can allow the rear bay rings to become overloaded with oil -- a prime cause of detonation.

The small tray we make is designed to work with most existing windage trays and complements the dual crank scraper we manufacture. It closely hugs the rear most counterweight and helps to shield it from oil that reaches the back section of the pan. It incorporates an adjustable scraper to quickly eject any oil that does enter.

The ovoid drain hole matches up to a hole in the scraper pattern; a small extension shields that hole and directs the ejected oil to the side of the pan. This extension can be trimmed to fit within existing windage trays:

Hey Steve, are you seasoning that block?

Ivor, its a 84,000 mile truck block so im guessing its seasoned
its at Chenoweth at the mo being machined Etc

Steve

already looked at the little bit at the back, another reason for the amount i've added onto the inside of the cometic pan gasket, plenty at the back to incorperate that peice

brilliant

AllKiller wrote:its at Chenoweth at the mo being machined Etc

Chenoweth? - are you getting their girdle too?? Nice piece, though maybe not as useful on BB as SB due to the deep skirt?

No Gav, was told not to bother, they really wont make that much difference and not worth the extra expense.
"Its up to you but i would nt go with one"...very reputable engine / chassis builder in UK...Mopar specialist.

So just goin with what he said.

Girdle????

You got some 'support' problems Steve?

Damn its out, yep its all goin Sarf

Hmm, can't decide what to do about a girdle. A very respected racer and builder in the States claims there is nothing you can do to prevent cap walk in a stock B or RB block, it is a fact of life that you just have to live with once you are up over 600hp. The sides of the block are not rigid enough to anchor the caps to to make any real differance apparently. The Chenowith girdle does appear to be a good design, and can not fail to add some amount of strength tying all the caps together as it does. How much good it does and if the real problem is harmonics as they claim, I really don't know.