Mopar Muscle Association UK

After lots of research I have decided to use T45 steel tube for the frame build

Carbon-manganese steel

T45 tube is a very unique seamless Carbon based steel tube that has been used in many applications throughout industry.

This great material has been around for 60+ years and was first designed for applications within the Aerospace Industry for use as airframe structures due to its high strengths and ease of forming and welding. Over the build period many aeroplanes such as the Spitfire, Hurricane and other known Hawker models have used this quality material within its structures (and still do today on historic rebuilds).



The motorsports Industry took to this tube with excellent results, products such as Roll Cages, Space Frames, Impact Protection, Wishbones, Anti Roll Bars were all produced and still are. The use of this versatile high quality material is still in high demand today. F1, WTCC, WRC, ERC, BTCC, ETCC ,Bikes, Karts and even Cycle Frames use or have used this high tensile carbon manganese tube within their construction.

It has also been used for the land speed record breaking Steam powered car, Thrust 2 right up to Thrust SSC




Oh and it's British not like that Molly American stuff

Due to C-19 i was let down by 2 frame shops so decided i would try and build the frame myself

This means buying the gear and having a go. Well out my comfort zone but let’s try ....



Tube Bending! Bending tube

Trying to save money i commandeered Grandads Record 220 pipe bender.

This model had cast iron wheels and followers (no not alu) and it work ok!

My only issues were the amount of forces needed was a 2/3-man job and there was a very slight oval ling of the tube on the bend.

I had the bender in the vice hanging upside down with my feet on the ceiling pushing down to make it happen.

In the end i bite the bullet and brought a JD Square Model 3.

In hindsight the bends are only marginally better and to be honest the Record bender did a very good job.

Now i have the ability to bend tubes easily using the geared up lever system but more importantly i can do them safety on own without the Circus act

i've got one like this i used for the cage in my anglia as well as suspension arms etc since. i got mine from stakesy's here in england though it's not on their website currently.
neil.

https://www.speedwaymotors.com/3rd-Gen- ... ,6614.html

...and the madness continues.....

and you did all of this last weekend!!!

did you get your clutch problems sorted?

i still think the lot should be submerged,
or partially submerged with an oil change each run,
or at least fed continually from that centre bolt like the original was, to flow across the plates, if you erm.... whats the term..... dry sump the clutch housing and add a catch can for the burny mess that comes out. You don't want clutch guff blocking the filter or going via the filter bypass through bearings of the motor. its friction material....

Dave

Dave999 wrote: Tue Jul 21, 20 12:16 pm
did you get your clutch problems sorted?

In short yes all sorted. Moved to a clutch system that uses Engine RPM to lock up and not Rear wheel rpm .....

I agree i dont like the design but enough issues without cutting the gearbox off the back of the block

Finally i got the bottom frame rails fitted !!

Feels like all i have done is spend hours building a table

Tube notching

To achieve this i removed the tool post from my lathe and made a special tube holder from an old V-Block.

This will except a range of different size tube.

You then use a roughing end mill the same size as the tube you want to Notch and drive the tube into the mill. (Slowly )

Advantages - Coolant for cutting - Degree wheel adjustment of tool post - DRO dial measurement of cuts !

It works soooo well if you have a lot of Tube notching to do buy an old lathe off ebay and convert it

autofetish wrote: Tue Jul 21, 20 10:00 pm

Dave999 wrote: Tue Jul 21, 20 12:16 pm
did you get your clutch problems sorted?

In short yes all sorted. Moved to a clutch system that uses Engine RPM to lock up and not Rear wheel rpm .....

I agree i dont like the design but enough issues without cutting the gearbox off the back of the block

wicked good to hear

although cutting off the gearbox housing sounds drastic i was thinking much more Heath Robinson block the drain into the sump put a filler for "oil in" and an outlet for "oil out" on the cover
circulate a measured quantity of clutch oil via in and out too much= drag too little = burnt plate must be a happy medium somewhere ...space for oil expansion necessary so its another catch can and a bit of plumbing that i guess would need to be well away from any place where it could burst or overflow and cover a tyre.....

from what i remember they were not in any way a cheap thing to replace, and it is getting some serious grief, gearing, weight, and intended use

sorry to bang on

Dave

Good idea using the lathe to do your notching

Over the years I have learnt one thing about this building cars and bike malarkey

THERE ARE NO RULES

Anything goes...

I used a Hole saw on a bar and cut the tube notches in the bottom chassis rails to the swing arm bushes.

Dave999 wrote: Wed Jul 22, 20 9:55 am block the drain into the sump

Not easy to do as this is a giant hole into the gear box also next to crank with fly wheel coming into the area to drive the clutch.

Dave999 wrote: Wed Jul 22, 20 9:55 am block the drain into the sump
circulate a measured quantity of clutch oil via in and out

Oil is injected into the clutch down the shaft. The shaft is hollow and forces oil into the clutch.
I think to make your idea work you would need to fill this clutch bit fully up with oil and just leave it full ??

Dave999 wrote: Wed Jul 22, 20 9:55 am from what i remember they were not in any way a cheap thing to replace, and it is getting some serious grief, gearing, weight, and intended use

Yes what is interesting is the big boy are cleaning the plates with brake and clutch cleaner before a run and using the clutch dry and melting a set of 130 quid clutch plates every run to get monster 60fts

I hear you and fully agree

My first idea was to mount tubes around the engine and to remove the engine it would be through the bottom of the chassis the same as the last bike.


For some reason Suzuki decided to make the engine mounting nonsymmetrical which will make my frame look really strange

To get around this issue placed the engine on a measuring machine and measured all of the key points of the engine.

This later will also help us with 3-D modelling of the engine

A set of aluminium plates was made which make both chassis mount symmetrical on both sides of the engine. this also meant that the aluminium plates could be removed and the engine removed from the side of the motorbike.

This will allow us to put a lot more structural rigidity in the base of the motorbike frame meaning it can be made lighter and stronger