Mopar Muscle Association UK

Although the photos still look Bananarama!, looks like I haven’t done anything.

Hmmm… any ideas…

Soldering ??

JB Weld?

Think gluing will work better, doubt you'd get solder to stick but would probably succeed with leaving heat marks just my

I’ve tried adhesive and no joy. Was considering milliput, but don’t think it good enough to pull the joint together. Soldering, possibly, but with my skills, I can’t see it looking pretty.

JB Weld a possibility. Not sure how to pull that split together without snapping anything.

any of these should do it. you only need a blow lamp so not much heat. i've seen demo's at the NEC and it works. it's more akin to soldering but with the strength of welding.
neil.
https://www.google.com/search?q=low+tem ... GB750GB750

Cheers Neil, I’m scraping out Bananarama! old glued in gaskets at the moment and researching how to weld pot metal.

Stu wrote: Fri Jun 24, 22 9:53 pm Cheers Neil, I’m scraping out Bananarama! old glued in gaskets at the moment and researching how to weld pot metal.

the stuff i suggested is used for all that crappy ally mate. it can even be chromed if used to fill pits/gouges in pot metal.

have used that stuff on scooter headset....works quite well
you can file it and use wet-n-dry to reshape.

you need to clean up the ends with a stainless steel wire brush which comes in the kit....its imperative that the naturally occuring aluminium oxide coating is removed..otherwise it just coats like PVA, no real metal to metal bond you just end up with a jacket of gloop...

and you need to be careful....you have no idea what temperature your aluminium based pot metal melts at.... and alumiinium doesn't glow red... it just holds its shape with a molten centre..and suddently your part collapses much like a cream egg left in the sun....

its basically brazeing without the brass.....

Dave

Cheers Dave, that’s interesting feedback. I picked up some JB Kwik weld from my local motor factors just in case, but can’t do anything this week anyway, so still trying to decide. May see if I can get a spare and do this one over time if I’m not confident, as I want to be driving it.

In actual workshop news, I rediscovered the original California number plate for the car, so I’ve put it up in my garage on the wall today as a nice bit of wall art and a reminder of Big Brother.

Having (no) fun trying to get the back end straightened out once and for all. I am happy now that the lights are straight, as I’ve rebuilt them. That shows that the light panel is still out, so more hammering to do this afternoon.

The valance was clearly on badly, which was making everything look worse, so I’ve pulled that and looking to get it back on straight. I’m now confused as to how many brackets should be on there.

I have the correct mounting kit and it seems to leave an extra two mounting bolts.

Top and bottom of it is, should there be additional brackets for the circled holes? Anyone got a good picture of the correct set up? The manual isn’t too clear.

I have brackets for the green circled holes, none for the red.

A couple of hours with a big twattering stick on the light panel yesterday and some massaging of the valance and things are a lot straighter than they’ve ever been, so getting there. Not perfect, but a damn site better, so will do until the winter for now. At least it doesn’t draw the eye like it used to.

Still convinced I’m missing a couple of mounts or something, where the red circles are.

Today project, I have two bumpers, both with issues. One is the original which is bent and no amount of pounding with the twattering stick seems to touch it. Looks crap when fitted. The other has some dings and lumps, a couple of holes and a lot of surface rust and pitting, but is much straighter.

Mission steel wool and autosol and see if I can make a ten footer out of the straighter one to get me to the Nats.

Full fat coke and aluminium foil Stu......I joke you not it worked very well on my rear bumper.