Dave999's Aussie Charger

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Trigger_Andy
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Post by Trigger_Andy »

Oooooooo I though you would have known that Dave :lol:


Plus I think you would be doing well to get a bang on 10mm hole anyway unless you used a pedestal drill.
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latil
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Post by latil »

Weld up wrong size hole,grind/file dead flat and start again :thumbright: Never done anything like that of course :oops:
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Dave999
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Post by Dave999 »

damn damnand damn

fell at the first hurdle

8.5 would have done it or 9 not 10.

silly dave

still have dodgy 10mm drill though

Dave
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Trigger_Andy
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Post by Trigger_Andy »

Dave999 wrote:
still have dodgy 10mm drill though

Dave
eBay it :lol:
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Dave999
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Post by Dave999 »

yeah you should have a pedastal drill

but i had a 4 cm long guide hole through the piece i wanted to bolt to which is the nearest imperial size to 10mm

so it was straight and reasonably round

ah well

you learn something old every day. I now vaguely remeber having screwed this up at schcool once before.

right lunchtime i'm off to spend another £2 and get thenm to drill and tap

i can't be trusted

:)

Dave
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Dave999
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Post by Dave999 »

Life is now good again

proof that i have a little knowledge and that I can indeed be dangerous
you have been warned

so

I popped down to see the engineering chaps at Lenton again
acquired the services of a professional with a big saw a linishing machine and a massive computerised drill/mill monster
what would have taken me 2 hours and a bunch of swearing took him 3/4s and cost me £10
and he didn't even take the mick too much when I explained why i'd come back

yay

Today's lesson is now stored away for future use.
next i need some place in yorkshire to send me the very thin sheet of copper they promised me.

will make up a copper gasket heat it red hot and allow it to cool slowly (should remove any work hardening, thus achive a better seal),
and bolt the lot toghether with a smear of exhaust paste

if that doesn't work i have something akin to lino which is used on flanged connections on stoves flues that should seal it

now can i use bolts/studs i find in the garage on this as it will not be load bareing or do i need some hi tensile?

standard maifold studs tend not to be anything special do they unless you buy ARP or something?

Dave
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latil
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Post by latil »

Heat your copper to dull red,just off black and plunge into cold water straight away. It`s iron / steel that you take up to red hot and leave to cool as slowly as possible to anneal.
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Dave999
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Post by Dave999 »

Nice one
i'm a liability

so i need all the dislocations to unlatch, catch them in the unlached state by quenching.
work hardening comes about when they get latched up again.
see i'm forgetting everything.
too much diet coke

it's not been my day

from now on i will be called idiot boy

:)

Dave
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Ivor
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Post by Ivor »

Dave if you decide to do the same with half hard aluminium, rub it all over with soap, heat it up until it turns black and quench that in cold water...re-skinning Lotus Sevens over the years, I've learned that makes life so much easier.

I remember getting all my hardening and tempering wrong on a special chisel I made for a particular job.

It was like trying to attack granite with a banana.

What I'm trying to say is, we all make mistakes! :oops:
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Dave999
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Post by Dave999 »

Tis true indeed Ivor

but i will be using scissors with rounded off ends for the rest of the week.

and picking the strands of hat from my teeth

:)

dave

ps do you have any photo's of the granite/banana incident, i have a vision of you sculpting with fruit.
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Post by Ivor »

Sadly I don't have a photographic record or I might have failed my exam!

Plastic rounded scissors I hope.

I think it was Victoria Wood who said, we didn't have children with learning difficulties when I was at school.

The daft kids sat at the back and did raffia.
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latil
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Post by latil »

Hardening and tempering,learning your colours,polishing up and running the straw up the end. :lol: Can't go wrong,can it? ;) I'll have to get a bigger forge and do my own springs.

We ALL had to do rafia,and basket weaving. :lol: :lol:
1965 Belvedere 2 426 Wedge.

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Dave999
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Post by Dave999 »

Latil if you ever do ive got a bendy set of springs in tha garage that need some work :)
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Dave999
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Post by Dave999 »

Update

slow slow progress

we have the plate sorted
its now installed
ends of studs peened over to stop em coming out
the bolts have been left long due to thinking about a heat shield, but i doubt ill get round to it.

copper gasket made and installed

on the car but only held on by two studs so far

inlet is bolted at one end and has a dowel at the other at inlet runner for no.1 to stop it sliding off , all other fixings are shared and are just little triangular washers that clamp the lot to the head. Obviously with the alternate inlet outlet spacing of the runners the exhaust gets the good big bolt at the other end but has no dowel to assit at the essentially free end.

this was not a problem when Inlet and exhaust were one however they are no longer connected so we will have to see how it goes. I guess anyone who runs headers already has this problem but th header flange edge runs beneath the inlet in some and over in other places to rest the two together in a manner that will not allow slippage.

obviously with the runners on the inlet being bigger the nuts don't fit and we have had to do a bit of grinding. As usual you can't grind far enough to get the socket in that you used to take the bleeding thing off with so i need some of them comedy sockets on a tiny drive from the pound shop to fit it all up.

manifold is supposed to be specially designed to avoid shock tower clearance problems. I think the designer was taking a bit of a liberty when deciding to use that as a selling point, however we shall see
torque strap here we come.

its now become obvious that the carb will have to go on backwards unless i get a special custom throttle cable as their is no space for a cable clamp in the same plane as the trottle lever on the carb and the cable won't reach. nice

carb round the other way and the levers (pressed on to shaft) hit the runner for no.4. nice!

a spacer may be needed but we don't know ho think until we can put a big lump of plastercine on the top of the air filter to see about space under the bonnet strengtheing braces.

i'm not cutting the strenghtening braces out of the bonnet.......that's just silly. It bulges up at 80 anyway with them in place

some pics

Dave
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Ivor
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Post by Ivor »

Dave,

I would say there's more than enough meat there to mill a groove out of the manifold...on the other hand, there would be nothing wrong with taking the top off the shock mount.

Then again, you could always do it the Australian way...jack the engine up directly on the sump pan, weld in three inch spacers under the engine mounts and cut a big hole in the bonnet.

Bonzer is the phrase...or so I'm led to believe.

Great pix by the way, this is all good stuff!
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