Dave999's Aussie Charger
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- Trigger_Andy
- Posts: 7867
- Joined: Sun Apr 18, 04 10:27 pm
- Location: Stavanger, Norway
- Trigger_Andy
- Posts: 7867
- Joined: Sun Apr 18, 04 10:27 pm
- Location: Stavanger, Norway
yeah you should have a pedastal drill
but i had a 4 cm long guide hole through the piece i wanted to bolt to which is the nearest imperial size to 10mm
so it was straight and reasonably round
ah well
you learn something old every day. I now vaguely remeber having screwed this up at schcool once before.
right lunchtime i'm off to spend another £2 and get thenm to drill and tap
i can't be trusted
Dave
but i had a 4 cm long guide hole through the piece i wanted to bolt to which is the nearest imperial size to 10mm
so it was straight and reasonably round
ah well
you learn something old every day. I now vaguely remeber having screwed this up at schcool once before.
right lunchtime i'm off to spend another £2 and get thenm to drill and tap
i can't be trusted
Dave
The Greater Knapweed near the Mugwort by the Buckthorn tree is dying
Life is now good again
proof that i have a little knowledge and that I can indeed be dangerous
you have been warned
so
I popped down to see the engineering chaps at Lenton again
acquired the services of a professional with a big saw a linishing machine and a massive computerised drill/mill monster
what would have taken me 2 hours and a bunch of swearing took him 3/4s and cost me £10
and he didn't even take the mick too much when I explained why i'd come back
yay
Today's lesson is now stored away for future use.
next i need some place in yorkshire to send me the very thin sheet of copper they promised me.
will make up a copper gasket heat it red hot and allow it to cool slowly (should remove any work hardening, thus achive a better seal),
and bolt the lot toghether with a smear of exhaust paste
if that doesn't work i have something akin to lino which is used on flanged connections on stoves flues that should seal it
now can i use bolts/studs i find in the garage on this as it will not be load bareing or do i need some hi tensile?
standard maifold studs tend not to be anything special do they unless you buy ARP or something?
Dave
proof that i have a little knowledge and that I can indeed be dangerous
you have been warned
so
I popped down to see the engineering chaps at Lenton again
acquired the services of a professional with a big saw a linishing machine and a massive computerised drill/mill monster
what would have taken me 2 hours and a bunch of swearing took him 3/4s and cost me £10
and he didn't even take the mick too much when I explained why i'd come back
yay
Today's lesson is now stored away for future use.
next i need some place in yorkshire to send me the very thin sheet of copper they promised me.
will make up a copper gasket heat it red hot and allow it to cool slowly (should remove any work hardening, thus achive a better seal),
and bolt the lot toghether with a smear of exhaust paste
if that doesn't work i have something akin to lino which is used on flanged connections on stoves flues that should seal it
now can i use bolts/studs i find in the garage on this as it will not be load bareing or do i need some hi tensile?
standard maifold studs tend not to be anything special do they unless you buy ARP or something?
Dave
The Greater Knapweed near the Mugwort by the Buckthorn tree is dying
- latil
- Posts: 12076
- Joined: Tue Feb 01, 05 10:37 pm
- Location: Steve Pearson MMA/014. East Grinstead and Carmarthen.
Heat your copper to dull red,just off black and plunge into cold water straight away. It`s iron / steel that you take up to red hot and leave to cool as slowly as possible to anneal.
1965 Belvedere 2 426 Wedge.
Climate change,global warming,the biggest tax raising scam ever devised by man for mankind.
Motivating Our People,Accelerating Rapidly.
Climate change,global warming,the biggest tax raising scam ever devised by man for mankind.
Motivating Our People,Accelerating Rapidly.
Nice one
i'm a liability
so i need all the dislocations to unlatch, catch them in the unlached state by quenching.
work hardening comes about when they get latched up again.
see i'm forgetting everything.
too much diet coke
it's not been my day
from now on i will be called idiot boy
Dave
i'm a liability
so i need all the dislocations to unlatch, catch them in the unlached state by quenching.
work hardening comes about when they get latched up again.
see i'm forgetting everything.
too much diet coke
it's not been my day
from now on i will be called idiot boy
Dave
The Greater Knapweed near the Mugwort by the Buckthorn tree is dying
Dave if you decide to do the same with half hard aluminium, rub it all over with soap, heat it up until it turns black and quench that in cold water...re-skinning Lotus Sevens over the years, I've learned that makes life so much easier.
I remember getting all my hardening and tempering wrong on a special chisel I made for a particular job.
It was like trying to attack granite with a banana.
What I'm trying to say is, we all make mistakes!
I remember getting all my hardening and tempering wrong on a special chisel I made for a particular job.
It was like trying to attack granite with a banana.
What I'm trying to say is, we all make mistakes!
Tis true indeed Ivor
but i will be using scissors with rounded off ends for the rest of the week.
and picking the strands of hat from my teeth
dave
ps do you have any photo's of the granite/banana incident, i have a vision of you sculpting with fruit.
but i will be using scissors with rounded off ends for the rest of the week.
and picking the strands of hat from my teeth
dave
ps do you have any photo's of the granite/banana incident, i have a vision of you sculpting with fruit.
The Greater Knapweed near the Mugwort by the Buckthorn tree is dying
- latil
- Posts: 12076
- Joined: Tue Feb 01, 05 10:37 pm
- Location: Steve Pearson MMA/014. East Grinstead and Carmarthen.
Hardening and tempering,learning your colours,polishing up and running the straw up the end. Can't go wrong,can it? I'll have to get a bigger forge and do my own springs.
We ALL had to do rafia,and basket weaving.
We ALL had to do rafia,and basket weaving.
1965 Belvedere 2 426 Wedge.
Climate change,global warming,the biggest tax raising scam ever devised by man for mankind.
Motivating Our People,Accelerating Rapidly.
Climate change,global warming,the biggest tax raising scam ever devised by man for mankind.
Motivating Our People,Accelerating Rapidly.
Update
slow slow progress
we have the plate sorted
its now installed
ends of studs peened over to stop em coming out
the bolts have been left long due to thinking about a heat shield, but i doubt ill get round to it.
copper gasket made and installed
on the car but only held on by two studs so far
inlet is bolted at one end and has a dowel at the other at inlet runner for no.1 to stop it sliding off , all other fixings are shared and are just little triangular washers that clamp the lot to the head. Obviously with the alternate inlet outlet spacing of the runners the exhaust gets the good big bolt at the other end but has no dowel to assit at the essentially free end.
this was not a problem when Inlet and exhaust were one however they are no longer connected so we will have to see how it goes. I guess anyone who runs headers already has this problem but th header flange edge runs beneath the inlet in some and over in other places to rest the two together in a manner that will not allow slippage.
obviously with the runners on the inlet being bigger the nuts don't fit and we have had to do a bit of grinding. As usual you can't grind far enough to get the socket in that you used to take the bleeding thing off with so i need some of them comedy sockets on a tiny drive from the pound shop to fit it all up.
manifold is supposed to be specially designed to avoid shock tower clearance problems. I think the designer was taking a bit of a liberty when deciding to use that as a selling point, however we shall see
torque strap here we come.
its now become obvious that the carb will have to go on backwards unless i get a special custom throttle cable as their is no space for a cable clamp in the same plane as the trottle lever on the carb and the cable won't reach. nice
carb round the other way and the levers (pressed on to shaft) hit the runner for no.4. nice!
a spacer may be needed but we don't know ho think until we can put a big lump of plastercine on the top of the air filter to see about space under the bonnet strengtheing braces.
i'm not cutting the strenghtening braces out of the bonnet.......that's just silly. It bulges up at 80 anyway with them in place
some pics
Dave
slow slow progress
we have the plate sorted
its now installed
ends of studs peened over to stop em coming out
the bolts have been left long due to thinking about a heat shield, but i doubt ill get round to it.
copper gasket made and installed
on the car but only held on by two studs so far
inlet is bolted at one end and has a dowel at the other at inlet runner for no.1 to stop it sliding off , all other fixings are shared and are just little triangular washers that clamp the lot to the head. Obviously with the alternate inlet outlet spacing of the runners the exhaust gets the good big bolt at the other end but has no dowel to assit at the essentially free end.
this was not a problem when Inlet and exhaust were one however they are no longer connected so we will have to see how it goes. I guess anyone who runs headers already has this problem but th header flange edge runs beneath the inlet in some and over in other places to rest the two together in a manner that will not allow slippage.
obviously with the runners on the inlet being bigger the nuts don't fit and we have had to do a bit of grinding. As usual you can't grind far enough to get the socket in that you used to take the bleeding thing off with so i need some of them comedy sockets on a tiny drive from the pound shop to fit it all up.
manifold is supposed to be specially designed to avoid shock tower clearance problems. I think the designer was taking a bit of a liberty when deciding to use that as a selling point, however we shall see
torque strap here we come.
its now become obvious that the carb will have to go on backwards unless i get a special custom throttle cable as their is no space for a cable clamp in the same plane as the trottle lever on the carb and the cable won't reach. nice
carb round the other way and the levers (pressed on to shaft) hit the runner for no.4. nice!
a spacer may be needed but we don't know ho think until we can put a big lump of plastercine on the top of the air filter to see about space under the bonnet strengtheing braces.
i'm not cutting the strenghtening braces out of the bonnet.......that's just silly. It bulges up at 80 anyway with them in place
some pics
Dave
The Greater Knapweed near the Mugwort by the Buckthorn tree is dying
Dave,
I would say there's more than enough meat there to mill a groove out of the manifold...on the other hand, there would be nothing wrong with taking the top off the shock mount.
Then again, you could always do it the Australian way...jack the engine up directly on the sump pan, weld in three inch spacers under the engine mounts and cut a big hole in the bonnet.
Bonzer is the phrase...or so I'm led to believe.
Great pix by the way, this is all good stuff!
I would say there's more than enough meat there to mill a groove out of the manifold...on the other hand, there would be nothing wrong with taking the top off the shock mount.
Then again, you could always do it the Australian way...jack the engine up directly on the sump pan, weld in three inch spacers under the engine mounts and cut a big hole in the bonnet.
Bonzer is the phrase...or so I'm led to believe.
Great pix by the way, this is all good stuff!