Mopar Muscle Association UK

I've got the same duel colour bulbs on mine from Classic Led's, work a treat on the front.

Did a bit of facebook detective work and tracked down some of the history of my car, potential history....

posted up my keys/ keyfob on facebook with a rerquest for info

it has J moorehouse engraved in the back with a date

needless to say found a guy with an article about my car and another who said he knows of a moorhouse familiy resdient in Parkes NSW for many years.

intresting to see that the restorers club article indicated that this car was "restored" in the late 90s and i purchased it ins 2002.
Needless to say I think whoever restored it pulled the wool over Reg and Karens eyes

When i got it
the track rod ends where not done up. only thing saving me from death were the split pins
it had one Kelsey hayse caliper and one girlock caliper. i.e 1 pin slider single pot caliper, and one claw slider single pot caliper
it had a ball of solder in the bottom front of the radiator core the size of an apple. all nicely painted in black

the pinion was bent
there was little to no oil in the gearbox
(both needed rebuild)

timeing chain was stretched and the cam end float created a thumping sound as the gear slapped into the cover and then the engine block.

i addressed all of this before i brought it back

the artcle states the front end was rebuilt with nolethane bushes well the ones you could see were i.e strut rods and bump stops BUT upper and lowers were still the original rubber
the motor might have been rebuilt but the oil pressure was dire and the lifters would not pump up....
new seat covers may have been applied but that was all, a gentle touch with the welder here and there and a repiant of the frames would have done the job properly .
the drivers door and front wing are from a later car, front wing has the half moon cut out in the interior flange for mounting a VJ indicator housing and the drivers door has a remote mirror hole hidden behind the RT badge.

given all of this can i belive anything in the article

the other article is about 2bbl RTs in general. slight innacuracy on numbers of RTs produced, they seem to have got confused, 1300 RTs but more cars produced with RT engines than just the RT chargers. i.e wagons with race engines etc

Dave

Dave999 wrote: ↑Tue Feb 28, 23 11:39 am it had a ball of solder in the bottom front of the radiator core the size of an apple.

That bit made me laugh.

Cool article to turn up, though.

you get me! yeah....

stripped it to take it out...
but then felt that lunch was a better option and failed to continue with the work

But did take some photos to illustrate the differences in Australian starters for Matt, after pulling my mini starter i was taken with how mini it was in comparison with the orginal..

its covered in oil due to rear main seal problem... which is to be fixed when i take out the motor

starters shown
35mm pinion for 727/smallblock combo works in US car as well. big pinion gear has a lead section under the gear (Right) its further away so it looks small....

27 MM pinion 10 tooth wide pinion gear front to back. works on hemi 6 3 speed hemi 6 4 speed 318 4 speed 318 on 904 318 on BW35 1971--> (middle)

25 mm pinion 9 tooth. bit broken. easy fixed, the pinion should not be that far forward, when at rest. narrow pinion gear works on the same as the 27 MM pinion (Left)

the 27 mm pinion is offset OUT from the centre line of the crank to allow the bigger gear to work in the same place as the 25mm one


my mini starter had a 35 mm pinion for a magnum 318 in a dodge truck US. and i swapped it for a 25 mm pinion 9 tooth so it worked on my car.
this would also work on a US street hemi Gen11 on an 833 the ones that had the unique direct drive starter.

when looking at the ends of the starters
Right is the 35mm US style pinion
middle top is the 27MM aussie note how thick the flat side of the D end is on this one
left is the 25 mm aussie



Dave

Thanks for this Dave, we will have a mess around with what we have here and see what is what.

OOT

Well done fella

i'm feeling slightly battered. must be 8 years since i last rolled around on cold concrete

Rear main seal

lets see if i can get the crank out without taking off the head.

and whaddya know..... applying stand to engine when on crane rather than trying to crane the engine over to stationary stand is much easier


dave

Cold concrete sucks more the older you get.

Took bloody ages to transfer my lump to the stand off the crane this time. Had to Jack the crane up to get the stand in close enough.

well this is what i have always done. messed about trying to line stuff up....

so this time i just jacked the crane up high. (I have the headroom in this garage. previoulsy i was making grooves in the ceiling)

bolted the stand fixture to the engine
then hung the rest of the stand on it and swung the lot round, gently as i lowered it so the stand didn't sit on the crane legs

why oh why haven't i done this before..... ????!


dave

Because we can't see the simplest things once we've over complicated it in our heads.

ScottyDave wrote: ↑Mon Mar 13, 23 10:51 am Because we can't see the simplest things once we've over complicated it in our heads.

dave? over complicate things? never!

indeed but nobody ever says i put my stand on the engine....they put their engine on a stand...

the messing about was reduced 100 fold no rolling the car back further and having to shove it back up the slight hill, minimal pushing of a great big pendulum around on clarkes, plastic "stone magnet" castors it was just toooo easy...

just goes to proove cold, knackerd, beard scratching in the garage for long enough, and eventually i get with the program

some of you do this multiple times a year i aim for once a decade

its a light ish engine and my crane although ancient and knackered is rated high enough at that mid extention point....longer car and bigger (all cast iron engine might be a risk.

Dave

i don't want to gloat but i've been putting my stand on engines for years mate. i think where you're the king of research i may be king of finding the easy way to do things, if sometimes a little unconventional. i worked for my dad running his haulage company workshop for many years and always looked for the easiest way to achieve the same result. dad said i should've been one of those time and motion study blokes.
neil.