Will´s 1968 Dodge Charger

autofetish · Post by **autofetish** » Mon Oct 24, 11 9:42 am

Not really my thing this blogging of work but here goes
This won’t be a look at my fantastic work but more of a HELP what do I do next.

How does that go back together Thread?

I intent to drive this car next summer so lots of work to do.

I have completely striped the car and have now sprayed the underside of the car with diesel in a hope to get the under seal off with a pressure washer.

Car will then be sand blasted.

Not a clue but loads of enthusiasm

Sorry for poo pics better will follow

I take it my best bet is to cut any rust out before sand blasting ?

Big thanks to my mum and dad for all there help getting me this far

sinny · Post by **sinny** » Mon Oct 24, 11 10:26 am

autofetish wrote:

I take it my best bet is to cut any rust out before sand blasting ?

I'd leave the rust in until after blasting as it will then show you where all of the rust is, but it's up to you.

Enthusiasm is half the battle, you will pick up the skills to do the job as you go along just think things through before you do them & remember "measure twice cut once!!!".

And make sure you keep the updates coming!!

Dave-R · Post by **Dave-R** » Mon Oct 24, 11 10:45 am

Yes the blasting will remove the rust and allow you to see what was just surface rust and what needed to go. So blast first and cut later.

autofetish · Post by **autofetish** » Tue Oct 25, 11 7:27 am

So last night was more of a pain than work.

As my garage is in the cellar i had to build a frame to move the car.

I got it out side and on the rotisserie again.

When i first looked at the under seal it was like concrete but now its had 13L of diesel sprayed at it its really getting softer

I gave it another coat of Diesel last night but was losing the light to pressure wash.

latil · Post by **latil** » Tue Oct 25, 11 7:56 am

The only way I've ever got that stuff off is with a heat gun or blowlamp and a 1" paintscraper, then soften what's left with paraffin or diesel.

AllKiller · Post by **AllKiller** » Tue Oct 25, 11 1:02 pm

Good work
I did wonder how you got it up to rotating height on the rotisserie ?

Infact ive always wondered how its best to do this with out damaging or twisting the body or roof ??

drewcrane · Post by **drewcrane** » Tue Oct 25, 11 1:51 pm

Ok I must say you are dedicated soul after seeing your garage and the rig you built to get the car out

,that undercoating is fun aint it

it is best to do what you are doing enjoying a cold beverage and just take your time with a scraper,I use an air scraper work very well

,the media used in blasting has changed alot over the years, if you use something to harsh like sand it will warp the panels if a person were not careful,

the soda blasting is the new thing now since it will not harm surfaces however I found it to be cost prohibitive for what I wanted

,cause if the car has alot of rust(our cuda had plenty) it will require alot more media to remove it, the place I used has a media(STAR BRITE) that is a mine tailing from mining aluminum ,it is perfectly round and did a great job for around $500.00,

Get it blasted and you will see where ALL the rust is and then ,get ready to cut and make panels and weld,

it will be much easier to weld on clean metal rather than trying to grind specific areas to weld to and worry about contaminates getting in to the weld areas, the blasting will reveal rust in places the sun dont shine so be ready for that...................happy blasting

autofetish · Post by **autofetish** » Tue Oct 25, 11 1:51 pm

Jon C = Diesel works really well it was like concrete and now its really soft might even come off with the pressure washer tonight

My friend works tarmacking the motorways he sprays all his tool and his truck with Diesel and it keep it from sticking

Sinny = Beer Good (German Beer even better)

Allkiller = Jack a bit here and a bit there then get some old wheel or stones under. Car is pretty strong as not to much rust. Still a tense moment the first time it flips upside down

Kev = Sandblasting is old hat but its cheap. Wallnut ice soda ect ect are the way but $$$$$$$$ i will have the underside and inside blasted with sand and then the panels either not blasted or soda blasted but all depends what it costs

autofetish · Post by **autofetish** » Wed Oct 26, 11 7:31 am

Thanks drew great info

so last night was pressure washer and it worked great .
Don't get me wrong i spent 4hr and got 60% of the car done but it takes it all off. No scrapers here.

Tools for the job i think

So my pressure washer is rated at 200 Bar and 180°C

I try ed with just cold water and no chance

I also try-ed on the front wings that had no diesel soak in and also no luck.

half of the car washed the other half tonight.

Warning there is crap everywhere i spent 2 hr in the bath scrubbing under seal off my head.

Warning its HOT.

Horrible job but easier than a scraper

Dave-R · Post by **Dave-R** » Wed Oct 26, 11 12:22 pm

That did work well!

Of course all the wildlife (swans, ducks, mammals, fish, etc ) in the local rivers and ponds will be dead by the end of today. But is is a small price to pay for a clean underside.

Ivor · Post by **Ivor** » Wed Oct 26, 11 5:31 pm

Original factory overspray there!

Doug · Post by **Doug** » Wed Oct 26, 11 6:10 pm

If your done with all that protective gear i bet there's weird folk with a particular fetish would pay a nice sum for the full gear

autofetish · Post by **autofetish** » Thu Oct 27, 11 7:57 am

Well car is clean a few spots but mainly all good. i will have to spend tonight de greasing the car as the diesel has made and oil film over everything.

So can of worms and all that theses are the rear frame legs just before the rear panel.

I want to fix it properly as the car is a keeper but do not what to put new rails on it. what would you do

Dave-R · Post by **Dave-R** » Thu Oct 27, 11 8:34 am

Personally I would cut out all the rusty bits but keep as much original metal as possible. Then neatly weld in new metal and shape/cut holes as close as possible to the original look. Done neatly, with good penetration on the welds and grinding, the repair should only need a very light skim with filler to look invisible.

sinny · Post by **sinny** » Thu Oct 27, 11 9:39 am

As they are only small sections I'd tend to agree with Dave.
I used frame rail caps for the front subframe on mine but that was a large area & they took quite a bit of modifying to get them to fit properly.

Mopar Muscle Association UK

Will´s 1968 Dodge Charger

Will´s 1968 Dodge Charger

Re: Will´s 1968 Dodge Charger