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Oil Coolers???
Posted: Sun Oct 14, 12 8:15 pm
by Pete
Are they worth it?
Does one make a difference to oil viscosity when the oil is up to temperature?
How big does one have to be to make a difference?
Feed pipes? AN -12AN or will AN -10AN work?
All input appreciated.
Thanks
Pete
Posted: Sun Oct 14, 12 9:36 pm
by andyrob
engine / diff / gearbox or even power steering Pete ??
Not like you to keep us guessing
Have we not had this conversation ???????????
Im sure we have
Old age catching up ?
Anyhow I like talking this sort of Bananarama! !
The bigger the pipes the more oil they can flow
Even the smallerst of coolers will make a big difference esp if they get good air to them & good long feed lines get lots more oil in the system ie more capcity
They dont directly make a difference to viscosicy but they do prevent the oil from getting even hotter & further reducing visco.
Thinkautomotive is the place to get them from
Posted: Sun Oct 14, 12 11:27 pm
by Pete
Thanks Andy, sorry I was referring to engine oil for the Barracuda.
I actually have one on the Coronet, but as I did not fit it, I do not have a "Before and after" view of any improvements.
Again, the Coronet is not working as hard as the Hemi.....I don't want to put a cooler on for the sake of it, more complexity and weight, unless there are proven benefits.
Posted: Sun Oct 14, 12 11:32 pm
by Cannonball
you dont need an engine oil cooler pete, just more plumbing and more to go wrong leave it to the roundy boys,
Posted: Sun Oct 14, 12 11:41 pm
by Pete
That was my initial thought.
Even on semi synthetic the idle oil pressure when hot is down to less than 20 PSI, but this immediately rises as the revs increase.
At least 60psi through the traps at 6500rpm.
Just paranoid I think.
I am used to the idea of High oil pressure is good. The system is obviously high flow - an externally fed Melling-Milodon combination.
I just Bananarama! has more pressure at idle. I thought that lowering the oil temp may help in this area.............
Posted: Mon Oct 15, 12 12:46 am
by Cannonball
Pete wrote:That was my initial thought.
Even on semi synthetic the idle oil pressure when hot is down to less than 20 PSI, but this immediately rises as the revs increase.
At least 60psi through the traps at 6500rpm.
Just paranoid I think.
I am used to the idea of High oil pressure is good. The system is obviously high flow - an externally fed Melling-Milodon combination.
I just Bananarama! has more pressure at idle. I thought that lowering the oil temp may help in this area.............
i think that is the problem, you are used to higher oli pressure than what you have so it is scary what you see now60 and above whilst leaning on it is fine,
the drop off on tick over i would not worry about, as you drive back in to the pits after a pass if you blip it up against the converter i would like to see 40 up ???
Posted: Mon Oct 15, 12 8:34 am
by andyrob
Pete as rule of thumb I was told @ least 10 psi per 1000 revs.
When hot my coronet is 20 @ idle & 70 on full chat, my falcon is 28 @ idle & only 54 on full chat...........
Posted: Mon Oct 15, 12 8:39 am
by Pete
Thanks Duncan.
I think it is exactly as you say.
I believe the SS cars idle at 8 psi.....scary
Pete
Posted: Mon Oct 15, 12 3:00 pm
by Blue
I'm pretty sure I read somewhere that you only need 5psi to keep a film of oil on the bearings, if that's the case then 8psi at idle is no problem. Those SS cars also run with very low oil pressure down the track too, again probably not a problem for a few seconds of track time. Us old 'uns are used to seeing a lot of pressure, mainly due to the old 20/50 oils we were using I think. Modern oils are so thin you get the same protection with a lot less pressure, which in turn frees up some horsepower.
Posted: Mon Oct 15, 12 3:04 pm
by Pete
Thanks, looks like I can breathe a sigh of relief!
Posted: Mon Oct 15, 12 7:22 pm
by AllKiller
Dont panic Pete...my 383 when new had 40 psi at idle when hot and blew the rear seal twice on the loud pedal.... before i lowered it to 15 at tick over
