Johnny's Dart repairs

Johnny Dart · Post by **Johnny Dart** » Sun Dec 29, 13 9:27 pm

Steve wrote:In for a penny eh mate!!

While all that is out it will be a good opportunity to clean all the connectors etc and test everything. Im going to have to do that on the Polara I think to find the issue with my dash lighting....

Good Idea, I've spent a coulple of hours on tracing the fault, but no further ahead.still back fed to the N/S and O/S rear flashers when ign on or in accessory position.
I have more looks tomorrow !

Steve · Post by **Steve** » Sun Dec 29, 13 9:33 pm

Have you tried bypassing the existing loom with some new lengths of wire to try to isolate the issue? I have loads of lengths of wire with insulated crocodile clips and connectors etc that I use to run new test wires everywhere. Bad earths are a big cause of issues, especially if things like the tail lights etc earth through the bulb holders etc. I always run earth leads from all the bulb holders to an earth point on the body nearby...belt and braces but cures loads of lighting issues

Johnny Dart · Post by **Johnny Dart** » Sun Dec 29, 13 10:18 pm

Steve wrote:Have you tried bypassing the existing loom with some new lengths of wire to try to isolate the issue? I have loads of lengths of wire with insulated crocodile clips and connectors etc that I use to run new test wires everywhere. Bad earths are a big cause of issues, especially if things like the tail lights etc earth through the bulb holders etc. I always run earth leads from all the bulb holders to an earth point on the body nearby...belt and braces but cures loads of lighting issues

Nice one,
I haven't got a lot of lengths of wire, however I do have a Power Probe, that gives me pos or neg power up at the tip, and it goes directly on to the battery , so you can give any item a good earth.
But I still can't find it yet,sometimes its better to leave it to another day, having spent some time thinking it through !!!

Steve · Post by **Steve** » Sun Dec 29, 13 10:23 pm

Thats very true.....come back to it tomorrow and the answer will be staring you in the face...

Johnny Dart · Post by **Johnny Dart** » Mon Dec 30, 13 7:56 pm

Steve wrote:Thats very true.....come back to it tomorrow and the answer will be staring you in the face...

Had another look tonight,no further ahead, still a direct live feed to the flasher unit next to the glove box, with ignition on, or in accessory position, cleaned up dirty contacts on all rear light , checked for good earth all OK, same at front lights indicators.Fed up now, i'll have another look tomorrow .

Steve · Post by **Steve** » Mon Dec 30, 13 8:14 pm

Right then Johnny....heres my thoughts on this for what its worth..(the Daves will be along soon I hope!!)

You know something isnt quite right and a wire is crossed somewhere or the likes..this is what my simple brain is telling me to do.

1. IGN OFF, BATTERY DISCONNECTED.....remove each fuse in turn, reconnecting battery and switching ignition on each time. If you find that removing a fuse cures it, or stops it happening then you may find the offending circuit thats interfering. Remove the fuse for the circuit in question and see if it stays on. You will know then that the feed is from another circuit somewhere.

2. Draw a very simple schematic from your shop wiring diagram of just the circuit you are looking at fixing. Mark the colours or draw it in the colours as per the book.

3. Using the diagram, check each wire in that circuit to make sure it goes where it should, is attached to what it should be attached to and isnt shorting out any where. Thoroughly clean everything as you go along

That might be a starting point for you

Is the flasher relay for your indicators or your hazards? Have you tried a new flasher unit (sometimes a spare under dash) or have you tried swapping them over? Try one plugged in and one disconnected, then swap. Try testing the feed out of the relays....should basically show 0V 12V 0V 12V 0V 12v etc.

Just thinking out loud as we need to get you sorted.

Steve · Post by **Steve** » Mon Dec 30, 13 8:18 pm

Just re read the thread and sorry Miles....missed your bit about the two relays.....DOH!

Was this happening before you fitted the new switch or has it started since then??

This has got to be something simple.....

Johnny Dart · Post by **Johnny Dart** » Mon Dec 30, 13 8:55 pm

Steve wrote:Just re read the thread and sorry Miles....missed your bit about the two relays.....DOH!

Was this happening before you fitted the new switch or has it started since then??

This has got to be something simple.....

Hi Steve, thanks for your input. I like your logical idea to see wich circuit is feeding the flasher.
The fault was apparent before I changed the switch, and still is when I change switches back.
The flasher that is back fed is the one behind the glove box( not sure if its the haz or flash)
Apart from the fault the indicators and haz work as they should.
Someone has been "at it" with wires behind the dash, so I am suspecting its going to be something to do with that,it will be fixed,but its a time consuming operation, with much head scratching.
I have a look tomorrow with your ideas, Ill post up my progress

Steve · Post by **Steve** » Mon Dec 30, 13 9:14 pm

I would be very tempted to rewire the whole circuit back to original and do the indicator conversion at the same time. Miles' thread is great.

If you use AES or a similar company you will get wire by the metre the same colour as the original loom. Take some measurements of the various runs and you can make the loom up out of the car. I am a big believer in studying wiring diagrams and picking out the circuit you are working on then drawing it out, in colour in mega simple form. All the right angle bends in the diagrams are quite off putting but in reality, a wire with six bends in it on paper is really just a straight wire from point A to point B.

Take your time, do the research on connectors etc and get stuck in. Our cars are fast approaching 50 yrs old...wires are brittle and even if you just use new spade connectors insulated with Aldi heatshrink, it will be better than you have at the mo. I spent about £50 on new wiring tools before I started the various alterations I did to my Polara and its worth doing to make the job easier. I bought a decent set of wire strippers, crimp pliers and snips and it makes for a much more professional job.

Get it back to how Ma Mopar intended and sure it will work.

Lots of guys on here are great with electrics...I play at it, but a simple, meticulous approach really helps. Before you know it you will be doing bulkhead bypasses, lighting relay conversions, HEI upgrades etc etc....its what owning and running these old girls is all about. And we all get those down days, regularly...I just tidy the tools ups....have a beer and admire that baby whilst looking forward to the next session

Steve · Post by **Steve** » Mon Dec 30, 13 9:41 pm

This is what I mean matey....I like simple!!! This is basically a schematic I did from Miles' advice re orange indicator conversion....give it a go, might help...

cheers Steve

Johnny Dart · Post by **Johnny Dart** » Mon Dec 30, 13 10:20 pm

Steve wrote:This is what I mean matey....I like simple!!! This is basically a schematic I did from Miles' advice re orange indicator conversion....give it a go, might help...

cheers Steve

I like that Steve,I'll ad more on here tomorrow.
I've never not fixed something ! I won't be beaten !, I may take some time.

Johnny Dart · Post by **Johnny Dart** » Tue Dec 31, 13 8:20 pm

Johnny Dart wrote:
Steve wrote:This is what I mean matey....I like simple!!! This is basically a schematic I did from Miles' advice re orange indicator conversion....give it a go, might help...

cheers Steve
I like that Steve,I'll ad more on here tomorrow.
I've never not fixed something ! I won't be beaten !, I may take some time.

After a bit more tracing up and down the loom, I'm back to the switch.It seems that I can stop the rears being powered up if a wiggle the new flasher switch,and hold it central. Its faulty.Red herring that the old one did it on one side only !but that old switch was broken in bits.
Its definitely feeding through the new switch ,as if disconnected the switch, it stops.Been in touch with the guy in the US who sold it to me,he confirms hes had a few faulty ones, and is sending me another one. So still no further ahead.
So on to next job, I need some plastic dickey cum bush thingy, probably, as I don't know what it looks like, for the wiper linkage (see picture ),check out jubilee clip bodge up !I any one has a couple or has an idea where I might get some , please let me know.

Steve · Post by **Steve** » Tue Dec 31, 13 8:29 pm

Great work....pity you cant get a refund as you stand every chance of getting another bum one!

I changed mine....cost me £70 but was great quality

Johnny Dart · Post by **Johnny Dart** » Tue Dec 31, 13 8:40 pm

Steve wrote:Great work....pity you cant get a refund as you stand every chance of getting another bum one!

I changed mine....cost me £70 but was great quality

I know,but they offered to send another,they look Chinese though.
finger crossed its a goodun.

Ironically the Guy sending me the replacement turn switch, also sells wiper linkage bushes !!

Steve · Post by **Steve** » Tue Dec 31, 13 8:45 pm

Yeah...bit awkward......let me know if you have issues with the new one and I will PM you the details of the one I bought...seems good quality. Only issue was couple of wires different colours to original but works well!