Chrysler 300c repair cost, you won't believe it.

[Lincrafts.com]

After taking out 2010 300c, which has only done 31,000 miles, to our nearest Chrysler dealer to diagnose why the EM light was on we were hit with a bill for £5927.46 LOL
Really we are not joking here. It is showing a fault with the intake manifold swirl control, turbo charge boost control and no3 glo plug. Forget the glo plug as it is kept garaged and starts ok so nothing major there. Turbo boost well I'm kinda thinking if it is in limp mode and the swirl thingy is not working the turbo is not likely to want to work, probably wildly wrong about this but really hoping there is a much much cheaper alternative other than buying an engine from eBay!

What we are asking is if anyone knows a Chrysler specialist in Lincolnshire.

We thought we could get on with our 'Cuda not waste time on the daily driver


What was Stoneacre's radio slogan at one time Cheapy weeklies?

[Jerry Smith]

Had something similar on our 06 diesel 300, took it to a local garage and it was still £1500, that was a few years ago now, can't remember the exact diagnosis, good luck and hope you find a more reasonable quote

[Charger]

presuming it is the 3.0 v6 CRD, similar to Jeep Grand Cherokee??

have a look in here …

https://conflictedracer.wordpress.com/2 ... ee-diesel/

part way down the page ‘WK CRD Common Issues and Fixes’

“Swirl Motor: Failure code is: P2015
Whether your Elephant Hose dripped oil into the Swirl Motor frying the electronics or it actually failed you have nothing to worry about. The swirl motor defaults to wide open regardless of its operation so if it failed in either way it will not affect driveability. In fact other owners who have had it fail like me see no noticeable decrease in low end performance where it was supposed to swirl the air creating a little more power at very low RPM.
The Fix is simply to buy a package (they don’t sell them individually) of 1 watt 4.7k ohm resistors online or from a local electronic parts store. Should cost < $2-$3 in total. Remove the shroud and the intake pipe to get access. See Elephant Hose Mod Above for removal directions. On the drivers side bank of the engine under the turbo inlet you’ll see a plastic clip with 3 wires running to it. Remove the clip from the swirl motor. Take one resistor and insert each end into the two middle wires. DO NOT PLUG IT INTO THE BROWN WIRE. Tape it up with electrical tape and tape it aside to reduce vibration”

I also read somewhere that the reason for the mahoosive bill is labour, both the swirl motor and turbo sit up top nestled in the V, to get at the swirl motor, the turbo has to be removed, to get at the turbo, the transmission has to be removed, you can see where this is going

I think I would be inclined to try the $3 fix first

[Lincrafts.com]

Thanks Charger, we will have a look at this first. I rang another Chrysler dealer and it made her day, she said they only charge 24hrs labour to rebuild an entire engine.

[Pete.S]

Are they not Merc engines ???

If so try an independent merc garage..?

Is very intesive job either way by the sounds of it.

[ronfenton]

presuming it is the 3.0 v6 CRD, similar to Jeep Grand Cherokee??

have a look in here …

https://conflictedracer.wordpress.com/2 ... ee-diesel/

part way down the page ‘WK CRD Common Issues and Fixes’

“Swirl Motor: Failure code is: P2015
Whether your Elephant Hose dripped oil into the Swirl Motor frying the electronics or it actually failed you have nothing to worry about. The swirl motor defaults to wide open regardless of its operation so if it failed in either way it will not affect driveability. In fact other owners who have had it fail like me see no noticeable decrease in low end performance where it was supposed to swirl the air creating a little more power at very low RPM.
The Fix is simply to buy a package (they don’t sell them individually) of 1 watt 4.7k ohm resistors online or from a local electronic parts store. Should cost < $2-$3 in total. Remove the shroud and the intake pipe to get access. See Elephant Hose Mod Above for removal directions. On the drivers side bank of the engine under the turbo inlet you’ll see a plastic clip with 3 wires running to it. Remove the clip from the swirl motor. Take one resistor and insert each end into the two middle wires. DO NOT PLUG IT INTO THE BROWN WIRE. Tape it up with electrical tape and tape it aside to reduce vibration”

I also read somewhere that the reason for the mahoosive bill is labour, both the swirl motor and turbo sit up top nestled in the V, to get at the swirl motor, the turbo has to be removed, to get at the turbo, the transmission has to be removed, you can see where this is going

I think I would be inclined to try the $3 fix first

This fix was done to my 55 Jeep Grand Cherokee - same engine. Garage who does all my Yank stuff (American Vehicle Serviing, Braintree, Essex).

John called me and said the swirl motor was £1300 + the cost of doing it or £50 to do this work around. That was 20k miles ago. No difference in driving, towing or economy.

Cheers, Ron

[Charger]

presuming it is the 3.0 v6 CRD, similar to Jeep Grand Cherokee??

have a look in here …

https://conflictedracer.wordpress.com/2 ... ee-diesel/

part way down the page ‘WK CRD Common Issues and Fixes’

“Swirl Motor: Failure code is: P2015
Whether your Elephant Hose dripped oil into the Swirl Motor frying the electronics or it actually failed you have nothing to worry about. The swirl motor defaults to wide open regardless of its operation so if it failed in either way it will not affect driveability. In fact other owners who have had it fail like me see no noticeable decrease in low end performance where it was supposed to swirl the air creating a little more power at very low RPM.
The Fix is simply to buy a package (they don’t sell them individually) of 1 watt 4.7k ohm resistors online or from a local electronic parts store. Should cost < $2-$3 in total. Remove the shroud and the intake pipe to get access. See Elephant Hose Mod Above for removal directions. On the drivers side bank of the engine under the turbo inlet you’ll see a plastic clip with 3 wires running to it. Remove the clip from the swirl motor. Take one resistor and insert each end into the two middle wires. DO NOT PLUG IT INTO THE BROWN WIRE. Tape it up with electrical tape and tape it aside to reduce vibration”

I also read somewhere that the reason for the mahoosive bill is labour, both the swirl motor and turbo sit up top nestled in the V, to get at the swirl motor, the turbo has to be removed, to get at the turbo, the transmission has to be removed, you can see where this is going

I think I would be inclined to try the $3 fix first

This fix was done to my 55 Jeep Grand Cherokee - same engine. Garage who does all my Yank stuff (American Vehicle Serviing, Braintree, Essex).

John called me and said the swirl motor was £1300 + the cost of doing it or £50 to do this work around. That was 20k miles ago. No difference in driving, towing or economy.

Cheers, Ron

[Lincrafts.com]

New swirl motor fitted, upgrade to the Elephant Hose that caused the problem all for under £1000, slightly better than the £6k quote.
Fingers crossed all goes well now.
Probably could have gone down the resistor route cheaper but Robin's happier with all the correct bits fitted.