Line Lock question

Demon James · Post by **Demon James** » Mon Nov 21, 16 1:23 pm

Factory

muzzydave · Post by **muzzydave** » Mon Nov 21, 16 4:05 pm

james the sneaky way i bleed my willwood brakes that have four nipples is i use fish tank air hose and the t connectors amd join the hose into one piece then straight into a bottle ...plus i use one way bleed nipples

Demon James · Post by **Demon James** » Mon Nov 21, 16 4:21 pm

wont that kill my fish?

Super Sloth · Post by **Super Sloth** » Mon Nov 21, 16 5:13 pm

James, I would agree with other comments that it would seem like you've got air trapped in the fronts.
I've just been through a bit of a similar Saga with my wifes MGB... new brakes throughout and couldn't get more than half a pedal.
We solved the problem by removing pads, had an assistant pump the pedal gently a couple of times to get the pistons almost all the way out so we knew the caliper was as full of fluid as it could be.
Next move was to crack the nipple and then compress the piston back into the caliper to force the air out.
We did this twice to both pistons in each caliper and hey presto a rock hard pedal.

Blue · Post by **Blue** » Mon Nov 21, 16 5:15 pm

This car has got discs on the back as well hasn't it?

Demon James · Post by **Demon James** » Mon Nov 21, 16 5:30 pm

Yes it has, blue. I did those first.
I might just try the pad removal method once I've bled the master cylinder, Jon.

Whatever issues I'm having, this car stops better than my manual 9" drums on the Demon

Super Sloth · Post by **Super Sloth** » Mon Nov 21, 16 6:05 pm

Demon James wrote: Whatever issues I'm having, this car stops better than my manual 9" drums on the Demon

Yeah... I feel your pain on that one!

Blue · Post by **Blue** » Mon Nov 21, 16 6:09 pm

I thought as much, Stock type master cylinders would be designed to work with rear drum brakes. The bore size probably isn't optimum, and you would normally have a larger reservoir as you get more fluid movement with a caliper than you do with a wheel cylinder. Personally I would change the master cylinder for the correct type especially if you think it might be leaking.

Demon James · Post by **Demon James** » Mon Nov 21, 16 8:53 pm

Super Sloth wrote:
Demon James wrote: Whatever issues I'm having, this car stops better than my manual 9" drums on the Demon
Yeah... I feel your pain on that one!

You said you wanted more excitement from your Demon, why should that come from the "going" when stopping is such a thrilling challenge

Demon James · Post by **Demon James** » Mon Nov 21, 16 8:57 pm

Blue wrote: Personally I would change the master cylinder for the correct type especially if you think it might be leaking.

What do I need to ask for, Blue? I did have a look at a Wilwood Master cylinder but was rather hoping I need not go that route just yet. However, stopping very important to me

Blue · Post by **Blue** » Tue Nov 22, 16 6:40 am

The popular type to use is a late model Mopar aluminium unit. You'll find them listed by Willwood and Strange among others. Strange B3360TA or B3359TA depending on how many pistons your rear calipers are. Hauser no doubt have a variant in stock. They are 2 bolt rather than 4 bolt so you have to make an adaptor, no big deal, I'll sort you out a link.

Demon James · Post by **Demon James** » Tue Nov 22, 16 8:12 am

Thanks, Blue

Out in the field today so no play time on the forum 'til later

Blue · Post by **Blue** » Tue Nov 22, 16 5:41 pm

Here ya go....

http://www.bigblockdart.com/techpages/mcadapter.shtml

Demon James · Post by **Demon James** » Tue Nov 22, 16 9:34 pm

Top man, that will save some working out

Thanks.

Pete · Post by **Pete** » Tue Nov 22, 16 9:36 pm

Hausers sell them / can get them.

I have one you can copy if you wish...

I would imagine you may also need an adjustable push rod if you go that route as well...