Mopar Muscle Association UK

Little update.

Been busy with a few things , Engine mounts first, as I have used the original V8 mounts had to exstend and put new holes in them.

TIB3300 wrote: ↑Thu Aug 13, 20 8:42 am

Dave999 wrote: ↑Tue Jun 25, 19 3:05 pm
I think you need to buy a roller bearing for a 318 or 360m magnum
and a roller bearing for a 2000 ford mustang

press the roller bearing out of each and put the mustang bearing in the mopar magnum bearing holder and whack it into the boss of the crankshaft flange where the converter spigot sits on an auto that should work.

If it's not deep enough a longer roller might be necessary, I can't see how far the end of the input shaft sits into that area in the end of the crank. I used an adapter that put the end of the spline level with the frication face of the flywheel...that might have resulted in not enough space for the plate or indeed a need to push the bearing back a bit in its boss.
Dave

Thanks for the advice again Dave
But I have a problem
I did as you said and bought the two spigot bearings, a Dodge Dekota and a 2000 Mustang spigot bearings.
The Dodge bearing retainer fits great,the problem is the mustang bearing is too small for the Dodge retainer.
Have I done something wrong?
TiBBs
IMG_20200812_153845886.jpg

Made a bearing retainer, using the ford T5 bearing . Bit tricky getting the tolerances just rite to get a press fit.
Decided to make my own pulleys, as I have a mish mash of parts, nothing lined up with the belt. So needed to make the crank pulley shallower by 22mm.

The next thing was the alternator brackets, as I have my top rad hose comming out where the alternator should be
Ive never made any before, so did a bit of thinking and came up with using the orginal slide and new mountings

ohh!! and C.A.D Cardboard aided design

First make it out of cardboard, them 1mm plate, nice and easy to cut with snips .Them the 4mm plate

that'll work
neil.

super...must be great having access to a lathe. if i got rid of some of my other junk i might have space

i did follow up on the bearings, chap who had insisted it worked had failed to mention that one of his bearings came from an after market supplier of kits for this swap, he had wrongly assumed they were standard parts. did his conversion about 10 years ago, is now running a later TKO in an aussie charger. he was right on the dodge dakota/big block throw out bearing..that does appear to fit nicely..but obviously i haven't changed gear with it

so i have a new input shaft for my t5 which i have not yet fitted, the current one had a chipped tooth, i might just get it sleeved to .750... I have to take my tail shaft housing in anyway to get it machined to fit over a world class 5th gear and synchro brake. in this case again i'm depending on internet notes and an online chat with a couple of guys

so won't say i know how to fit a none world class housing to a worldclass box until i've tried i'm now going over all i have purchased again just to make sure it all does actually fit.

Dave

Yes I couldn't have done this build without access to machines

Well after a year or so, it was time to start the engine from america.All went well untill it got hot, then the oil light came on at tickover

It might be worth getting a gauge on there to see what pressure there is once its warm.
These engines run well even when quite worn, so knowing what the pressure is now might be a good idea.
It could just be the switch as previously mentioned, but a gauge would tell alot more.

MattH wrote: ↑Sat Nov 21, 20 10:27 am It might be worth getting a gauge on there to see what pressure there is once its warm.
These engines run well even when quite worn, so knowing what the pressure is now might be a good idea.
It could just be the switch as previously mentioned, but a gauge would tell alot more.

Pulled the sump off and changed the oil pump today,lots of goo in the bottom that and only 3 1/2 liters of oil came out. Strange the stick read between low and full. Anyhow ran it again today, oil light no longer comes on when engine is warm. But crank in knocking, so thats a £1,600 engine that need rebuilding

You paid £1600 for 318?

Trigger_Andy wrote: ↑Sat Nov 21, 20 4:41 pm You paid £1600 for 318?

Yep from the US of A ,

It all started well at £650 for the complete engine and box, taxes inport this'' inport that'' fees Total £1,600

Bought it for the engine plus bell flywheel ect, anyhow cant use any of that,so just the engine hay presto

£1,600 for a engine that needs rebuilding Happy Days

Super amazing great work !!!!!


Keep the updates coming this is one of my favourite threads !!!


Is that a siegmund fixture welding table ?


Please can you send it to me


Pretty please I have been good all year !

autofetish wrote: ↑Fri Dec 11, 20 8:26 am Super amazing great work !!!!!

Keep the updates coming this is one of my favourite threads !!!
Is that a siegmund fixture welding table ?
Please can you send it to me
Pretty please I have been good all year !

Thanks I do my best

Siegmund Table yes

Have 4 of them


not mine though,, works

Well after the engine I got from the USA fell a part I decided to rebuild the Leeds bought engine.


With the patient on the table, I stripped and cleaned everything including a trip to the local jetwash with the sack
barrow. Crossing the road with a engine block on a sack barrow got some funny looks. " oh! You can pick up and carry these blocks, as I had to move it from one side of the garage to the other, but yep they are meaty.

I now know a lot more about these engines and I must say .I do quite like them, simple with a few quirky things.

Tuesday this week I started the engine up after the rebuild including' rings' new cam bearings' mains' and shells' sounded odd with a miss fire.

Then after 10mins a squeak/ rub noise, I thought it had picked up a on a main, very odd noise couldn't put my finger on it ??

So yesterday after thinking about from 4:30am I was back in the garage at 7:55am inlet manifold off again, sump off.after finding nothing, no shiny bits in the sump. I noticed that number 8 exhaust valve cam lobe had a rub, Ide had a problem with this lifter not turning, so changed the lifter again for another no still no turny!!!!!

Cleaned it, polished it, was lovely in the guide, but still no turny!!!! Sat looking at it for 10/15 mins trying figurer it out . 8ollox seen it, when I washed the rockers and the shaft I thought I had put everything back right,

BUT NO! I had put the last two rocker arms the wrong way round. Meaning that the push rod was rubbing on the head, this was the strange sound and stopping the hydrollic tappet from rotating

And once I put number 7 and 5 plug leads the right way round sounds sweet now "HAPPY DAY'S




"EDIT" tonight

Well the noise is back at tickover, ran the engine at 2000rpm for 20 mins" WOW THAT THING GETS HOT! " sounds good though I think its another lifter rubbing the cam,

Ran it today after a sticky / noisy tappet yesterday, left it on valve spring load all night seems to have squeezed any air out of it.

Am happy with the bottom end so am going to put it in the car , but going to get new cam and followers


https://youtu.be/PBDczKBF3LE


.

TIB3300 wrote: ↑Sat Jan 23, 21 6:26 pm Ran it today after a sticky / noisy tappet yesterday, left it on valve spring load all night seems to have squeezed any air out of it.

Am happy with the bottom end so am going to put it in the car , but going to get new cam and followers


https://youtu.be/PBDczKBF3LE


.

Success! Good to see a running engine Are you also going for a bit more carburation?