Mopar Muscle Association UK

HI Neil,

yep raising the end of the tailshaft say 35mm will raise the collectors around 27mm , but that's still less than half as much as I'd really like. May be easier just to get some different headers and 'adjust them', leaving the gearbox where it is.

Cheers

Matt

You will then have to arse about with the Pinion angle again if you raise the tailshaft up that much..

Oh Yes Pete I can go on about pinion angle for hours...

Actually it's a little out at the moment.. Mainly due to the gearbox being too low. 'Perfect fit' I don't think.

Will be re-adjusting the pinion angle soon, hopefully in January once I finish installing the traction bars.

Bit of an update

Got the garage floor screeding finished after quite a lot of work, but it's so much better. Painted it in sections to save moving all the stuff out .

Very happy with the paint . It's a 2-pack epoxy, solvent free, that is pretty much odourless and sets in a day or so.

Rawlins Paints 304 HD Epoxy Floor Coating

So - the replacement crank damper.

Took advice from ATI on which damper type to choose, and they recommended the aluminium shell, steel hub 3-ring design.


I made a flywheel holding tool:

And pulled the old damper off

The ATI damper is very nicely made.

Two things need addressing before fitting though:

1) The new damper places the pulley mount surface about 13mm in front of stock. Moving the rest of the accessories forward is not an option, so I'll have to modify the crank pulley to suit.

2) You need a really long retaining bolt. Longer than the Mopar aftermarket 'Long' bolt.

Fortunately, would you believe it, the bolt from my puller was an exact fit, and proper quality .

ATI say that you may have to hone the bore of the damper, especially with aftermarket cranks, but it looks like I got lucky.

Heated the hub up in boiling water, and it pulled straight on without undue effort.



Measured the pulley for cutting
Made a light turn to remove the clear powdercoat inside and out,

Cut 13mm out of it.
Veed out the join and clamped the two halves up

Welded up . The heat turned the rest of the powdercoat yellow but I'm not too bothered at the moment.





And turned off the excess weld inside an out.

I could have added more weld into the low spots, turned again, and polished, but it's good enough for me as is.




And there you go . Alignment restored, and about 4 thou runout on the pulley, which I'm happy with.

Wow, quick work there, on the pulley and the floor!
Is that the same place you had the cars in years ago, near the Ace Cafe that you showed me round?

Hi Matt,

I moved out of that place a few years ago - we moved house as well and are now out near Guildford. I rent a barn at the farm across the road, which is where the cars are. Going to try to build a supershed at home at some point, but that’s a few years off at the moment.

ATI dampers are very good quality but the crank sizing and pulley issue is a pain that most others just d§on’t seem to have. I used one on my old striker motor and that needed honing, they can be seriously tight when you need to get them off again.

So in the quest to get the car a low as possible, the exhaust is currently hanging down too far, and needs modifying.

The main culprit is the headers - even accounting for the gearbox mounting issues, they hang too low for me.

Bought some assorted bends from Jetex



Left the RH header in place and moved the h-pipe up against the floor. Here’s the height difference


Friday before a Sunday race. No going back now. Cut the tti headers up.

After quite a bit of cutting, fitting up, and head scratching , it turned out ok

The lowest thing on the car now is the bottom of the bellhousing - which will be next on the hit list.

that's much better
neil.