Mopar Muscle Association UK

I shall let you know what it’s like

Ooh thats interesting.
I found somebody to rebuild, its done, get it back monday. Will post results...

Will be interesting see how it goes.

I had my box rebuilt, and its got virtually no play. But my car still doesnt drive the way i want it to, and certainly not as good as yours!

Sometimes i wonder if it actually needs a bit of slop....................................

your issue may be a function of a lack of castor

bit more weight to the steering and it might feel better

if you whack in more castor to get a bit of weight to the steering it might be better BUT you end up with positive camber

makes the car look like it needs a wee and does nothing for handling

however you can rectify that by shimming the lower balljoints out a bit with these

https://www.manciniracing.com/maracaspkit.html

or indeed some hardened washers. Also buy some nylocks or the Bananarama! over the bolt head bendy shim type retainer kit for the bolts (depends on vintage and country of origin).....

messes with steering angles a smidge...

what you get is a nice chunk of castor that weights up the steering so it doesn't feel over assisted
without the knock-kneed look of positive camber

might be worth a try

if you have manual steering this would be too much castor and you would need the shoulders of the Hulk to park the car

but obviously all of this is worthless

if
too much play in top bush
too much play in bottom bush
knackered strut bushes
play in the rubbery end of the idler and pitman arm

try also a urethane bush for the idler (fat end) cheaper and easier to find than a ball bearing conversion and about 80% the same

Nolethane in Oz make them

mopar nolethane idler bush https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Nolathane-41 ... 2a7714caa9

fits an A body dunno about B but probably... as the fat bolt idler was a 70s thing and yours is i guess a sixties car


other option is to dick about with the pump pressure. saginaw pump has a valve under the outlet. swap in a slant 6 spring and valve and you reduce the assist but can end up with notchy steering if there isn't enough the valve has a shim in it the thickness of the shim dicates the output pressure of the pump, slant 6 weighs less than v8 hence the valve was shimmed for less pressure. can't remember if the shim needs to be fatter or thinner

Dave

This has arrived but it’s a real casting !

I shall keep you all informed!!!

looks like you got the Mk2 version

mopar style case without welded on ears

id be inclined to use a normal pot coupler

you will have to chop the end off your column shaft to fit that joint

you will also need metric to mopar power steering pipes or some kind of adapter i would think

ah once all the photos downloaded i see you are already in possession of the adapters

Dave

I'd be interested to see how this turns out, 120 miles yesterday reminded me how "too light" my Power Steering is, but it doesnt leak!!

Dave999 wrote: ↑Mon Jun 17, 19 9:37 am looks like you got the Mk2 version
mopar style case without welded on ears
id be inclined to use a normal pot coupler
Dave

MattH wrote: ↑Mon Jun 17, 19 11:00 am I'd be interested to see how this turns out, 120 miles yesterday reminded me how "too light" my Power Steering is, but it doesn't leak!!

Try the mancini racing ball joint shims to whack in more negative camber and you can then put the cam bolts in at full positive castor
back bolt ,offset washer thin bit in, front bolt, fat bit in , without the wheels looking wonky from the front

IN , being in towards the middle of the car.....

thus pulling top ball joint back far enough for the line between it and the bottom one to hit the road well in front of the contact patch
that should add some weight.

Dave

MattH wrote: ↑Mon Jun 17, 19 11:00 am I'd be interested to see how this turns out, 120 miles yesterday reminded me how "too light" my Power Steering is, but it doesnt leak!!

Light I can live with. Vague I can live with. Leak is irritating !

Dave999 wrote: ↑Tue Jun 18, 19 9:42 am

MattH wrote: ↑Mon Jun 17, 19 11:00 am I'd be interested to see how this turns out, 120 miles yesterday reminded me how "too light" my Power Steering is, but it doesn't leak!!

Try the mancini racing ball joint shims to whack in more negative camber and you can then put the cam bolts in at full positive castor
back bolt ,offset washer thin bit in, front bolt, fat bit in , without the wheels looking wonky from the front

IN , being in towards the middle of the car.....

thus pulling top ball joint back far enough for the line between it and the bottom one to hit the road well in front of the contact patch
that should add some weight.

Dave

I didn't realise you could shim them. I have as much castor as possible already, obviously more needed.

Well I finally am getting my arse in gear and have the old one out and the new one installed.


Help !!!!


Last job refit pitman arm and........


My car is a 1968 with 1 1/8 splines pitman arm

I ordered the wrong power steering box with 1 1/4 splines ....




Now what Do I order a 1973 and up pitman arm and idler will this mess with the geometry ???

Does 1973 above below use same K member ??

In terms of "K" Frame, no they are different to yours which is usually quoted as 1968 - 70 but in reality anything from '62 will fit with minor changes - typically braced Idler arm brackets, and the angle of the Steering box mount relative to the "K" Frame.....

Challengers and Cudas up to 1974 are virtually the same, but the "B" Body went all wobbly and rubber mounted - they are totally different to the earlier ones....