Mopar Muscle Association UK

As the title suggests... any suggestions ?

I've always suspected some of my clearance issues are caused by engine sitting slightly in the wrong place.
I had issues with headers fouling idler arm on steering bar; and now its out I can see where the other side has been touching the torsion bar at times. Basically the whole unit is sitting too low - fair bit too I think.

Previously I had to make up some shims and fit them between the mount and the pad - that got me past the idler issue - but it aint enough.

Mounts I have are 'stock' 440source. I either need slightly longer ones or bigger pads. Does anyone know if there are options on this stuff ? Or is 'stock' it and I have to get something fabricated to bring it up a bit ?


Enjoy the AMAZING artwork illustrating my requirement.

You could maybe oval the holes in the K- member upwards and shim under the mounts a little . Wouldn't get you that much height though.
Or It would be fairly straightforwards for a metalworker to fabricate taller mount brackets.
If you raise the front of the engine too far you'll affect the driveline angle, and your fan may hit the shroud if using stock items.

But how and why would the engine sit too low in the first place ?

Are the headers the problem ?

Well, its possible. They are ttis and in theory perfect. But they clearly touch stuff and as far as i can see engine higher would cure.
I did wonder if k frame maybe splayed a little ; which could pull everything down a bit. Dont know if even possible.
You are right though ; headers sitting higher would do it - its them that sits low - they are the bit that is lowest and will hit speedbumps first...

Would new rubber mounts help? If they are old they might have gone a bit squishy.

need to have a check in the parts book to see if the B and RB range had a range of brackets over its life

allpar has a 68 parts book

might find like you do with the A/LA magnum set up across 273 318 340 360 that the brackets differ

i'd guess the insulator/biscuit is much the same. they all seem to be about the same thickness with the studs in different places

OOoh do you have the right ones of them? or was the man who made them stevie wonder.

and last but not least

someone hasn't stuck late model B body K frame insulators in have they

the legs of the K should be flat with the chassis rails


Dave

There's nothing made as far as I'm aware. Correct engine placement is critical for header clearance. pretty sure the height and side to side placement are listed on the tti website. it is also critical the engine is level with a spirit level place across the valve covers. I nomally jack the engine into the correct position and then try the mounts and see how best to correct them, you normally need to shim, elongate holes or physically cut and weld to correct.

Blue wrote: ↑Thu May 09, 19 10:28 am There's nothing made as far as I'm aware. Correct engine placement is critical for header clearance. pretty sure the height and side to side placement are listed on the tti website. it is also critical the engine is level with a spirit level place across the valve covers. I nomally jack the engine into the correct position and then try the mounts and see how best to correct them, you normally need to shim, elongate holes or physically cut and weld to correct.

I completely agree, Blue.

The other trick if you still cannot achieve clearance with the engine in the correct position is to shim the engine mount.
A get out of jail card but avoid if possible.

TTI's have always gone straight into my "B" Bodies when using stock mounts, I would venture that your engine has never sat in the correct position....

I would agree with that, on most occasions the engine naturally wants to sit in the wrong place, it can take quite a bit of faffing about to get it where it should be but it’s worth the effort.

Well, at the moment I have one side shimmed, but we'll do some faffing then and try for better alignment with the next one.
Working on the assumption the TTIs are good then thats all there is really... Thanks chaps
(got the old ones out. They dont look squashed etc - but not hugely deep either. will post).

hey could be the fella that drilled the holes in mounting ears on your current block got them all in the wrong place

Now thats an interesting theory. I'll compare...

Do you know whether you've got standard OEM style solid rubber mounts, or the Schumacher type Polyloc mounts?
The video on the link below implies that the polylocs are slimmer, which would make the engine sit lower.
At around 15.50 mins, Nick (from Nick's Garage) finds that his Challenger's 440 sits crooked because he has one of each type.
You may be able to get a pair that are slightly taller?



just a thought

Seems I am not alone. Others have trouble with TTis (or any other) headers clearance.
https://board.moparts.org/ubbthreads/ub ... upler.html
Given that mine clouted on both steering idler AND seem to just rub the torsion bar it seems obvious now it has always sat too low - it would explain everything.

My mounts are stock, not poly. I inserted a 5mm aly shim on one side last time out to clear the idler - but this time round I want to seat it right. Trouble is, shim too far and the mounts become too close together. Ideally I just want 'longer' upper part of the mount - something that maintains the x axis but extends the y axis. Worst case I might have to mick up a template and get something made.

Will have a ponder...

OK; we'll see if this is doable. 10mm shim inserted.
The obvious problem will be that as well as raising things a little it also makes things closer.
I am hoping there will be enough wiggle to make this fit. We'll see.

In an ideal world I need to actually make a slightly longer 'arm' (top part of the mount) so that it just sits higher, but seeing if this works first...

Just a thought, but is this going to start snowballing into other issues like the selector rods for the trans being out of adjustment?