Re: Restoration thread 1969 St Albans charger
Posted: Thu Nov 18, 21 1:02 pm
I will post a picture of the carb shortly
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Dave999 wrote: ↑Fri Nov 19, 21 10:38 am your carter carb is a perfectly good carb, they are just a bit of a pain to get right, they were obviously alright originally,as chrylser used em all over. if they were a pig to set up during production something else would have been used. one presumes cheap and did the job, would have driven that buisness decison.
Adrian worman, previously of this parish, although not in evidence for about 5 years, knew his way round most carter carbs and helped quite a few people sort theirs out
It has to be said there is more holley expertise in the UK.
The rover v8 crowd like a carter style, Edelbrock made, 500 or 650 AVS, anyone who does that kind of work should be able to tune what you have.
expect to pay 40-80 for a tuning kit of rods n jets n springs from edelbrock or £10 from china
i think yours is an AFB style carb made by carter or edelbrock/weber/magnetti marelli. i.e doesn't have the spring loaded air vane of the AVS. there should be a flappy bit on the top of the secondaries that will be mechnically linked or counter weighted instead of spring loaded.
for it to work the rods need to have 2 sections of correct thickenss, there are multiple variations per carb model and most of the rods can be used in carbs that they were not orginally designed for.
the hole, namely the jet the rod restricts, needs to be the correct bore
and the spring that resists against a reducing vaccum signal controls if the fat bit or thin bit of the rod is in the jet, needs to be correct.
coupled with the usual accelerator pump fun.
lambda senser or rolling road makes tuning these carbs easier
getting it running perfectly just on the primaries with the secondaries wired shut is the way to go....initially i.e run it like it was a carter BBD.
rods jets springs for primaries, often just jet and air flap, regardless of how it is controlled, for secondaries
if you can work out its CFM from its part number, you can download the manual for a simlar carb from edelbrock
or with a bit of work, find out the car it came off orginally and get the service manual or carter carbs manual for it.
if it turns out to be a universal/aftermarket carb even better.
any old carb will always be spoiled by air leaks at the throttle shafts, no free play in throttle cable at eaither end of travel and the outcome is ware..... check first
if its an 800CFM monster its not going to be ideal, you probably want a 400-650 CFM
the only massive CFM carb that might work is a carter themoquad its an 800cfm carb used on 318 - 440 engines. again pefectly good carb but not liked by many at all..... and hard to repair/restore due to all the emissions crap on them. Any bin full of carter carbs would be 80% thermoquads. its a shame really.
or get a holley. ive never had one , they might be dead easy...
yours appears to have an electric choke
make sure you don't feed it off the wire to the coil... its a "noisy" supply and the heat element in the choke will sink a lot of current when cold meaning less power for sparking...not what you want, it will highlight any problems with connectivity or resistance in that wire until the choke coil gets hot..... and on a standard car that wire is only 9 volts when car is in RUN. taking it from the other end of the ballast is still not quite good enough. really needs its own switched and fused feed
Dave
Thank you Matt, il get her off and cleaned up and try again….Chargingatchya wrote: ↑Sat Nov 20, 21 6:20 am [quote=MattH post_id=652425 time=<a href="tel:1637312156">1637312156</a> user_id=69]
The backfire is unlikely to just be one plug, much more the carb and timing. If it sat for many years the carb could have all sorts of gummed up bits inside.