Mopar Muscle Association UK

For the love of God, before I Bananarama! pieces, please help!

2 minutes flat to pull the adapter and replace the o ring, now approaching an hour of not being able to but the Bananarama! thing back in!

How easy should it be to slot back in?

ie. is it a case of I just need to keep wriggling and it will slip in nice and easy when it finds it’s place, or do I need hammer the Bananarama! thing back in?

I’ve lined up the marks, so pretty happy I’m where it should be but it’s a mile away from seating and I’ve leaned on it pretty hard.

I’m going to have a tea break and hope someone can offer some advice please...

Sorted it. Took the o ring off and checked the thickness and I’d been given the wrong one, it was that that was stopping it. Fresh one from the same place and back in easy.

Frustrating when what should be a simple task, Just Isn't

Glad you've got it sorted, that seems to have been fighting you all the way.

Isn’t it just. Dropped the Bananarama! retaining clip as well and it vanished for a solid 20 minutes. Was ready to kick the crap of out my toolbox until it turned up 10 foot away, Lord knows how it got that far.

Having a brew and trying to decide if I want to do the pan and filter now or if I’ve had enough simple jobs going wrong for one day.

Last two questions for the day :

Got a rubber gasket for the new trans pan, would you normally fit it dry or gasket goop it?

On a scale of 1 to Ray Charles, how bad exactly is ATF for your eyes...

Cast pan, fit it dry. Steel pan, glue it to the pan and let it set before fitting it. ATF has a lot of detergent in it, and having ingested most automotive chemicals over the years, it’s fetter than most…

Ah bugger, steel pan and went with dry. Not sure I have the will to pull it all now, had a massive battle getting the bolts back in with no nose to pan clearance.

What’s your verdict, is it likely to leak?

Well what a peachy day. Just tightening up the two bolts where the shifter cable bracket is held to the pan / trans and one of them didn’t want to go in. Finally got it to seat, torquing it up and it suddenly went loose. Wound it back out, covered in glittery trans fluid.

Bananarama! it.

Out of days I can get to it before the Nats now, so probably Bananarama! for that.

Bananarama! awesome.

Blue wrote: ↑Sat Jul 17, 21 3:10 pm Cast pan, fit it dry. Steel pan, glue it to the pan and let it set before fitting it. ATF has a lot of detergent in it, and having ingested most automotive chemicals over the years, it’s fetter than most…

Today’s question, it’s been sat torqued up for a week whilst I raged at stripping one of the threads (I think).

1. Rubber gasket, if I take it all off again and take your advice on hooping the gasket to the pan first, will it still be useable / seal ok, or should I try and get another one fast.
2. Any suggestions on how to get the last bolt sorted, it winds in and starts to tighten, then slips as in my post above. I have nowhere to work other than on axle stands, so can’t get it on a lift and no time to get it anywhere before the Nats, so if I’m going to make it, it’s just about what I can do with zero talent in a few days.

Personally I would leave the pan now it’s on. If it still isn’t leak free get a cast pan and the modern plastic composite gasket and you’ll never have another problem. The correct way to fix the stripped bolt is to helicoil the case. The threads that hold the shifter cable go right through the case so just use a longer bolt with a nut on the end, fiddly but do able as a quick fix.

Thanks Blue, I was considering a longer bolt and nut, but was dubious about clearance, so that’s good to hear.

Brand new pan with a drain hole, so will be a bit of a pisser if I need to replace again, but tbh it would be worth it if I can just put the leaks to bed.

I’m hoping I don’t need to adjust the shifter cables after messing with the bracket. That was a right ball ache to get right when I put the new shifter in.

Right, I’ve clearly made a right Bananarama! Horlicks out of a simple job, I’ve now got a few litres of trans fluid all over the floor and it’s Bananarama! out of that corner where the shifter cable bracket is.

I’m at the point of not getting it to the Nats, so am going to order another gasket if I can get one, have ordered some longer bolts and nuts from Spalding Fasteners and am going to pull it and try again once it all arrives, last chance saloon.

Blue, can you recommend a pan and gasket for me to order for when I can get the job done right if I can bodge it up for now?

I also decided to leave the filter alone last time as I couldn’t shift the bolts. Stupid question, assume they aren’t reverse thread or something stupid? Was a bit surprised to find they were slotted head, didn’t want to budge and didn’t want to give them too much welly and damage the transmission. Would like to get it done this time, but don’t want any more issues. Any advice?

Blue, when you say glue the gasket, I take it you just mean gasket sealant?

Don’t give a toss about looking a dick asking idiot questions on a simple job anymore, jut want to get to the Nats and raise a beer to the sky.

High temp RTV applied sparingly and left to fully dry before installing is what I'd glue the gasket with. Do you have an inch/lb torque wrench to tighten the pan bolts with? They are not done up as tight as you might think. The screws holding the filter on shouldn't be that tight, they are RH thread. If you have a flat blade screwdriver with a hex on it for a spanner, that should get them out if some clown has layed into them. I like these pans,https://www.summitracing.com/parts/sme-1009r#qanda
And reusable gasket,https://www.summitracing.com/parts/mor-93110

Blue wrote: ↑Sun Jul 25, 21 10:26 am High temp RTV applied sparingly and left to fully dry before installing is what I'd glue the gasket with. Do you have an inch/lb torque wrench to tighten the pan bolts with? They are not done up as tight as you might think. The screws holding the filter on shouldn't be that tight, they are RH thread. If you have a flat blade screwdriver with a hex on it for a spanner, that should get them out if some clown has layed into them. I like these pans,https://www.summitracing.com/parts/sme-1009r#qanda
And reusable gasket,https://www.summitracing.com/parts/mor-93110

Blue, thanks, getting a bit desperate, it’s important to me to make this one in the car, so appreciate your help.

New gasket on its way, one of Ricks Felpro rubberised cork type things from the filter set, so will replace with that and glue it.

Yes, I’ve got an inch pounds torque wrench, but I’m currently doubting it and it doesn’t show the increments I need for any job I’ve come across yet, so if you have any recommendations on a decent one, I am happy to invest. I have a Draper at the moment.

I figured that was the case for the filter screws, but think they have been really wellied in there, so am a bit worried about moving them at this late stage, or whether to just leave that put until after the Nats.

I’ll order a pan and gasket and look to redo the whole lot and get the dodgy hole helicoiled over the winter if I can get through the Nats.

Like the whole car, everything was either finger tight, King Kong mullered in or not fixed in at all.

Off to clean up the 5 litres of ATM I lost yesterday whilst I’m waiting for parts to arrive. Think Wednesday night is Bananarama! or bust night.

I just have a generic in/lb torque wrench, anything that goes from 50 to 150 inch/lb is sufficient. Unless the filter looks really bad leave it for now.