Mopar Muscle Association UK

The ubiquitous Kawasaki recovery tank…

How many of those do you have!? I didn’t realise they were Kwaka.

I buy ‘em off eBay as required, someone’s always breaking one it seems.

Converting from single circuit to dual circuit brakes. Master cylinder and distribution block are from a 1974 Dart, line lock is Biondo. None of the original lines are reusable so you have to start afresh.

New cooler lines made to replace the previous leaking rusty cobbled up mess...

‘Merican built exhaust starts off at 2” then necks down at each joint until the tailpipes are only 1-1/2”. Tailpipes were supported by jubilee clips for that final touch of quality…

Leaking push button trans removed for remedial action…

Blue wrote: ↑Mon Oct 24, 22 6:42 pm ‘Merican built exhaust starts off at 2” then necks down at each joint until the tailpipes are only 1-1/2”. Tailpipes were supported by jubilee clips for that final touch of quality…

Can’t beat Mexican kwality

Hopefully this is as far apart as it’s going to get, should all be reassembly from here on in…

That’s a lot more apart than it was last week!

Loving the ever narrowing exhaust.

Hopefully the engine and box will be back in by the next time you see it!

So did you drop the K member and engine complete, using the engine hoist?
Then remove the k member from under the engine?
Did you have an extra pair of hands? though i expect you can do it in your sleep by now

Hooked the engine up to the crane, removed the K frame and lowered the engine to the floor. I did it on my own, I only ever get help when I physically can’t lift something.

Manifold studs screwed straight out of the heads which I was not expecting considering they all thread into the water jacket. Last brake line run tucked behind the bulkhead pinch seam.

Trans ready to reassemble. The push button transmissions use a convertor with less splines that the later 727’s, hard to find replacements and almost non existent in high stall versions these days. A later convertor will fit if you swap in the matching pump/ input shaft/ front drum as an assembly so I’m doing that. The convertor I had was for an externally balanced cast crank engine, identified by the weights on the front face. Careful bit of grinding to remove the weights and we are good to go. Whenever I change a converter, l bolt the flexplate to it first and spray a bit to index it. The bolt pattern looks equal but it has one bolt offset so this saves a load of time when it comes to bolting it up in the car.