Mopar Muscle Association UK

This is what the other numbers should look like.

Here is the position of the numbers on the engine and transmission.

Making sense of the numbers

First digit
The first digit in the VIN is the car line.

Second digit
This is the price class.

Third and fourth digits
This tells us the body type.

Fifth digit
This is the engine code:
B = 198 ci
C = 225 ci
G = 318 ci
H = 340 ci
J = 340 ci six pack (1970 only)
L = 360 ci
L = 383 ci
N = 383 ci
R = 426 ci
U = 440 ci
V = 440 ci six pack (1970-71 only)

Sixth digit
This is the last digit of the model year (Not necessarily the year of manufacture)
e.g. 0 = 1970, 1 = 1971, etc.

Seventh digit
This is the assembly plant code.

The last six digits
This is the plant sequential production number starting with the number 100001. It is NOT an indication of the number of that model built.

Note

When the last 8 digits of the VIN are stamped into the body the first two digits are reversed from the way they appear on the dash and the fender tag. (see photos at top)

Mods can you "sticky" this too please?

Also I am not sure if it should be in this section or the "Restoration" section?

Thanks Dave, now sticky and in Restoration.

Ooooo.....This is tonight's job I think!

Thanks for posting it Dave!

This sort of information is second nature to us long time mopar guys.

So I think we forget that there are a lot of people in this club to whom all this is new to them or at best only something they have heard about but are not sure of all the ins and outs of it.

A few posts in recent times have made it clear to me that there is a knowlege gap opening up here so I thought it was about time I threw a little something to help those wanting to know more about their cars.

Dave wrote:This sort of information is second nature to us long time mopar guys.

So I think we forget that there are a lot of people in this club to whom all this is new to them or at best only something they have heard about but are not sure of all the ins and outs of it.

A few posts in recent times have made it clear to me that there is a knowlege gap opening up here so I thought it was about time I threw a little something to help those wanting to know more about their cars.

Its much appreciated buddy!................Always open to learning new things!!

how does one decide if a car is matching numbers or not, having both vin & engine number of the car

mr m wrote:how does one decide if a car is matching numbers or not, having both vin & engine number of the car

There should be a sequence of numbers that match throughout the car.
Look at the first 2 posts on this thread as an example.

mr m wrote:how does one decide if a car is matching numbers or not, having both vin & engine number of the car

Numbers matching means body shell, engine and trans all have the same numbers.

The body should have the numbers in at least four places. The radiator frame, the cowl, the VIN tag on the dash, and the fender tag.

Some models may also have a number on the trunk opening gutter.

It is nice if the sticker on the drivers door edge is still there to as it has the VIN and actual build date (month/year) as opposed to the scheduled build date that is on the fender tag.

On my old Fury I found partial vin on quite a few panels,trunk floor,rear wheel tubs,rear parcel shelf were some.

The muscle cars (the ones people are generally concerned about being original because of value) seem to have fewer ID markings than the more "normal" cars produced. Something I can't quite get my head around.